By now we have announced that we have made it to the end of a long but unbelievable journey.
However for the sake of completeness I'll give a quick outline of our last 3 days on the track. Although we were forced to take to tarmac through lack of public footpaths we were still able to enjoy the route.
Leaving Helmsdale we were able to take advantage of a new section of the A9 which cut a little distance off the walk for the day and gave us a wider verge to escape from the traffic which continued to roar past on its way north. The road snaked its way up a steep hillside on the Ord of Caithness, the high cliffs being punctuated by narrow inlets (geos). We passed but didn't visit the lost village of Badbea, the ruins of which commemmorate the 80 crofters which following eviction struggled to make a living ina bleak and desolate location. We plunged down to the hamlet of Berriedale before zigzagging up once more to take a more level approach into Watten. It was a fine and sunny day and at the top of the rise we were greeted with our first views of the coastline stretching towards John O Groats - cause for celebration!! The coast road continued north into Dunbeath and the spectacular privately owned Dunbeath Castlebefore reaching Latheron another former herring fishing village. Passing one of the few native broadleaf forests we struggled on to Lybster our stopping place for the night.
The following morning we manged a quick look at the tiny harbour in Lybster before heading off the A9 a short distance north and on a long, direct and quite deserted road towards Watten.
Some distance along the road we passed the Grey Cairns of Camster which were most worthy of further inspection. Two large neolithic chambered cairns, one round and the other long they were pretty much intact after some restoration work and we were able to crawl through a narrow passage into the inner chamber of the larger cairn. Built in the Stone Age about 4 - 5000 years ago they were thought to be huge burial tombs for local chieftains - a bit of a creepy experience but thankfully no skeletons!! As we approached Watten the country became even more desolate with mainly moorland and the occasional pasture supporting some sheep.
We were pleased to reach Watten, a small town supported by the excellent fishing on the nearby loch, but after a short rest decided to walk on past Loch Watten towards JOG for a couple of hours to shorten our journey on the final day. We returned to Watten for the night.
The final few miles from our stopping place were accomplished fairly easily the following day.
Although the day was fine and a bit chilly views of the northern isles were a bit misty much to ur disappointment. However we were able to appreciate the starkness of the both the island of Stroma and of the Orkneys, Stroma being privately owned and the Orkneys being accessed by a number of ferry services one of which departs from JOG. Suddenly about 4 -5 kms out of JOG we were able to see the outline of turrets of the now disused John O Groats Hotel our final destination. The last few kilometres seemed to take forever but then we were there!!
Tired but elated and probably relieved that we could now give our feet a rest!!
A heartfelt thanks to all those people who have supported us throughout the last 3 months especially Richard without whom the walk would not have been possible and the people who kept things going in Hobart while we have been away. Also many thanks to our sponsors.
It is great to think we will be able to make our contribution to the work of Dr Catherine Hamlin and the Fistula Hospital in Ethiopia. And it is not too late for last minute contributions if anyone is interested.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Saturday, September 12, 2009
WE'RE THERE !!!
Some Overall Observations
The three walkers, David, Yvonne and Frances covered 1850 km in 3 months supported by Richard during which:
- None of the four fell ill or suffered any injury at all (apart from minor foot wear & tear).
- The car covered over 4000 km with only one minor undercarriage ding from a hidden rock.
- No relative or close friends fell seriously ill or worse, requiring any rescheduling.
- All but 2 of the 74 forward bookings worked as planned. One was a day out and the other was booked at a town with the same name, 50 miles away.
- The walkers utilised as much as possible recognised long distance walking tracks and where this was not possible, canal, bicycle and disused railway paths together with minor roads resulting more distance resulting in a minimum time on busy A roads.
- In doing so they passed through some of the most scenic and spectacular parts of the UK on some of the most demanding parts of the toughest walking trails such on the Pennine way, the Cornish coastal path and the West Highland way.
- We had on the whole fairly good quality B & B standard accommodation however the schedule required a real discipline with breakfast around 8am walking around 9.30 and usually finishing around 5-6 pm.
- The average days walk was 25 km per day.
- Apart from a couple of fine and hot weeks in June the weather was awful, particularly in Scotland.
- Yvonne and Frances burst into tears on arrival at JOG and who could blame them!
- We developed into a very compatible group and had a lot of fun despite the relentless walking demands.
- Additional walkers joined the team and added to the experience - LT and Joni who walked from Bath to Manchester, then LT again back for more with Andy for the full on last week, as well as Tim, Tammy, Matilda and Christine for special days.
Donor Recognition
Recent contributions to the Hamlin Fistula hospital included the Sandhole Farm at Codlington, Navidale House Hotel near Helmsdale, Dyall & Kathy Davies from London, the Manchester Didsbury walkers, Alan and Ingrid Gilbert and Scott & Mirella from Hobart. Many thanks for your generosity. The full list will be acknowledged later
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
The Final Stage
After a day in Inverness where we scuttled about under brollies to avoid the drenching rain and with stories of severe local flooding we walked ot of Inverness along the swollen and fast-flowing River Ness to cross the busy Kessock Bridge across the mouth of the Beauly Firth. north of the bridge we took a peaceful path firthside before heading northward into forest and pasture.
There followed a daunting crossing of the causeway across the Cromarty Firth which was teeming with all manner of trucks and vehicles. One surprising sight was a number of massive oil rigs in the Firth either waiting for repairs or to be towed to their sites in the North Sea. From the end of the causeway it was a straightforward route via roads and a cycle path running parallel to the A9 via Evanton to Alness passing the Fyrish Monument, another hillside folly, on the way. Alness only claim to fame appeared to be as recipient of a number of 'Britain in Bloom' awards but given it is now autumn the floral displays were beginning to look a bit weary.
From Alness we took to the empty lanes at the back of the town and headed into the Ardross Forest stopping for a coffee at a wildlife park near Aldieburn before reaching the town of Tain which was rather mieval looking and which traces its roots back to the 11th century. Heading out of town we passed the Glenmorangie Distillery before crossing another very busy bridge over the Dornoch Firth. On the far side of the bridge we took the minor road into Dornoch. Dornoch proved to be a fascinating and handsome town with a beautiful Cathedral, the site it would seem of Madonna's wedding. Apparently it was also the site of the last witch-burning in Scotland.
We took tea at the very fine Dornoch Castle Hotel and an early dinner before walking out of the town a further 5km to our accommodation at the very isolated but very comfortable Four Penny Cottage.The following morning some were treated to the sight of roe deer grazing in a nearby paddock at breakfast before we set off to join the lane past the ruins of Skelbo Castle along the southern shore of Loch Fleet. This is a national nature reserve which was once a sea loch but ashingle build-up at the mouth has turned it into a lagoon that supports all kind of wildlife including thousands of birds. A large number of seals were spotted lazing on the mudflats. Having crossed the bridge on the A9 we cut across as soon as possible into a stand of ancient Scots forest featuring Scots pine, heather and lichens - very beautiful and quite unique. We emerged on to the Golspie Links golf course and followed this into Golspie where we enjoyeda sandwich on the seawall in bright sunshine. A delightful seaside path then took us out of Golspie along the coastal sward to Brora. The highlight of this walk was a tour of Dunrobin Castle which claims to be one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited houses. Containing 189 rooms it dates back to the early 1300s but was remodelled to its current fairy tale appearance in 1841. Home to the Dukes of Sutherland it featured a fascinating collection of their memorabilia, elegantly furnished rooms and beautiful gardens inspired by those at Versailles. Beyond the Castle the path passed an ancient circular stone tower or broch. These defensive homesteads are commonly associated with the Picts and are peculiar to northern Scotland. As it was low tide we were able to walk along the beach where we again passed a number of seals with their babies on the shore or perched on neighbouring rocks. overnight at the small village of Brora.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
MORE MEMORABLE MOMENTS
Details CAN be had from at least one team member
How to extend the never ending conversation with the garrulous host, by David
The West Highland Way Procession
Lady Buckley and the Midgies
The Dovers Dog midgie warning & closing the window incident
How to climb a difficult style with the gate open, by Yvonne.
Making friends with Glum and Glummer
Will Andy finish the boat in time?
“The worst is behind us’ by David (Monday)
‘The worst is behind us’ by David (Tuesday)
‘The worst is ………. never mind’ by David (Wednesday)
Frances ‘mugged’ by a chicken at Rory’s forest Café
Mr Buckley’s booking? ….. YOU were expected LAST Night!
Frances caught with her pants down despite Lady Buckleys warning.
David…. there are 2 places called Laggan and we’re booked in the one 50 miles away??
How to pick a snipe by its long tail by Richard
posted by Richard
Monday, August 31, 2009
The Great Glen Way
In the customary early morning drizzle we departed Fort William eagerly anticipating our first day on the Great Glen Way. We soon joined the Caledonian Canal at Neptune's Staircase, a flight of locks which allowed shipping access to Loch Lochy and the lochs further north. At Gairlochy the Canal issued out into the Loch and we began a traverse along the loch on a series of forest rides not far from the waterside and for once relatively flat walking. Some 34km later we arrived in South Laggan where an accommodation mixup (2 Laggans in Scotland!!) saw us homeless but we were rescued by Isabel at Invergarry where we spent the night.
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
More from The West Highland Way
Leaving Inverarnan we wound our way along the floor of Glen Falloch along the line of an 18th century military road. Under General Wade the English introduced a systematic road system in the Highlands to enable their troops to move swiftly and effectively. One of these well-made routes is now the basis for long chunks of the West Highland Way north of Loch Lomond. From high in the trees above Crianlarich the giant pyramidal shape of Ben More came to view before we descended through the forest to reach the remains of St Fillans Priory (StFillan w2as an 8th century monk who wandered the Highlands preaching Christianity. The Way followed the bank of the River Fillan into Tyndrum an old lead mining town. The remainder of our journey was quite memorable as we walked the road in company with the railway along the bottom of Glen Orchy, the views being dominated by huge mountains, the most prominent of which was Beinn Doran which loomed overhead. Our journey for the day concluded at Bridge of Orchy, a small and isolated outpost.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
Monday, August 24, 2009
The West Highland Way
From Strathblane we headed west to join thye West Highland Way. A rather inconsiderate land owner forced us on to a very muddy path for part of thir roue which diminshed our enjoyment of soft woodland, nesting swans and serene lakeland. However our good humour returned with a decent coffee and lunch at the Wishing Well not long after we joined the Way and much better paths. The path continued along the former railway line to the hamlet of Gartness where we followed a lane into the village of Drymen. Remants of an old Roman fort and the Antoninw Wall could be seen on our approach to Drymen as rain again set in.
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Memorable Moments
Details may be available from various team members or in Frances’ diary:
The latent flasher and the left behind lacy underwear incident
The Buckley / Watson accommodation grading system
The fattest person contest
How to handle a herd of wild horses (or bullocks) by David
How to clear the fence the fastest way by David (and Frances)
The lost room booking and the blow up them beds occasion
How to ignore the ‘Dyson’ by Richard
How to attract dogs by David
What to do with the unwanted full greasy breakfast
‘Come this way its not boggy’ Yvonne incident.
The aggressive land owner and a momentary loss of temper incident.
Can we get a lift on that canal boat through the 2 mile tunnel?
The ‘Imelda Marcus’ walking shoe collection contest (easily won by Yvonne)
The oldest visitors book in a 1792 pub and the 1923 Hobartians visit.
The jingle jangle room key incident.
The ‘worst in your face hostess’ contest.
Has Jo got Swine Flu??
Is there a film that LT does not know all about?
Can LT get his pint of coke fix here?
The daily map reading sessions.
How to have dinner with the same people for 90 nights and still laugh.
Have we got Internet connection?
Padstow, David and the icecream loving seagull.
Joni in the short skirt and the distracted driver accident
Posted by Richard
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