Saturday, September 12, 2009
WE'RE THERE !!!
Some Overall Observations
The three walkers, David, Yvonne and Frances covered 1850 km in 3 months supported by Richard during which:
- None of the four fell ill or suffered any injury at all (apart from minor foot wear & tear).
- The car covered over 4000 km with only one minor undercarriage ding from a hidden rock.
- No relative or close friends fell seriously ill or worse, requiring any rescheduling.
- All but 2 of the 74 forward bookings worked as planned. One was a day out and the other was booked at a town with the same name, 50 miles away.
- The walkers utilised as much as possible recognised long distance walking tracks and where this was not possible, canal, bicycle and disused railway paths together with minor roads resulting more distance resulting in a minimum time on busy A roads.
- In doing so they passed through some of the most scenic and spectacular parts of the UK on some of the most demanding parts of the toughest walking trails such on the Pennine way, the Cornish coastal path and the West Highland way.
- We had on the whole fairly good quality B & B standard accommodation however the schedule required a real discipline with breakfast around 8am walking around 9.30 and usually finishing around 5-6 pm.
- The average days walk was 25 km per day.
- Apart from a couple of fine and hot weeks in June the weather was awful, particularly in Scotland.
- Yvonne and Frances burst into tears on arrival at JOG and who could blame them!
- We developed into a very compatible group and had a lot of fun despite the relentless walking demands.
- Additional walkers joined the team and added to the experience - LT and Joni who walked from Bath to Manchester, then LT again back for more with Andy for the full on last week, as well as Tim, Tammy, Matilda and Christine for special days.
Donor Recognition
Recent contributions to the Hamlin Fistula hospital included the Sandhole Farm at Codlington, Navidale House Hotel near Helmsdale, Dyall & Kathy Davies from London, the Manchester Didsbury walkers, Alan and Ingrid Gilbert and Scott & Mirella from Hobart. Many thanks for your generosity. The full list will be acknowledged later
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
The Final Stage
After a day in Inverness where we scuttled about under brollies to avoid the drenching rain and with stories of severe local flooding we walked ot of Inverness along the swollen and fast-flowing River Ness to cross the busy Kessock Bridge across the mouth of the Beauly Firth. north of the bridge we took a peaceful path firthside before heading northward into forest and pasture.
There followed a daunting crossing of the causeway across the Cromarty Firth which was teeming with all manner of trucks and vehicles. One surprising sight was a number of massive oil rigs in the Firth either waiting for repairs or to be towed to their sites in the North Sea. From the end of the causeway it was a straightforward route via roads and a cycle path running parallel to the A9 via Evanton to Alness passing the Fyrish Monument, another hillside folly, on the way. Alness only claim to fame appeared to be as recipient of a number of 'Britain in Bloom' awards but given it is now autumn the floral displays were beginning to look a bit weary.
From Alness we took to the empty lanes at the back of the town and headed into the Ardross Forest stopping for a coffee at a wildlife park near Aldieburn before reaching the town of Tain which was rather mieval looking and which traces its roots back to the 11th century. Heading out of town we passed the Glenmorangie Distillery before crossing another very busy bridge over the Dornoch Firth. On the far side of the bridge we took the minor road into Dornoch. Dornoch proved to be a fascinating and handsome town with a beautiful Cathedral, the site it would seem of Madonna's wedding. Apparently it was also the site of the last witch-burning in Scotland.
We took tea at the very fine Dornoch Castle Hotel and an early dinner before walking out of the town a further 5km to our accommodation at the very isolated but very comfortable Four Penny Cottage.The following morning some were treated to the sight of roe deer grazing in a nearby paddock at breakfast before we set off to join the lane past the ruins of Skelbo Castle along the southern shore of Loch Fleet. This is a national nature reserve which was once a sea loch but ashingle build-up at the mouth has turned it into a lagoon that supports all kind of wildlife including thousands of birds. A large number of seals were spotted lazing on the mudflats. Having crossed the bridge on the A9 we cut across as soon as possible into a stand of ancient Scots forest featuring Scots pine, heather and lichens - very beautiful and quite unique. We emerged on to the Golspie Links golf course and followed this into Golspie where we enjoyeda sandwich on the seawall in bright sunshine. A delightful seaside path then took us out of Golspie along the coastal sward to Brora. The highlight of this walk was a tour of Dunrobin Castle which claims to be one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited houses. Containing 189 rooms it dates back to the early 1300s but was remodelled to its current fairy tale appearance in 1841. Home to the Dukes of Sutherland it featured a fascinating collection of their memorabilia, elegantly furnished rooms and beautiful gardens inspired by those at Versailles. Beyond the Castle the path passed an ancient circular stone tower or broch. These defensive homesteads are commonly associated with the Picts and are peculiar to northern Scotland. As it was low tide we were able to walk along the beach where we again passed a number of seals with their babies on the shore or perched on neighbouring rocks. overnight at the small village of Brora.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
MORE MEMORABLE MOMENTS
Details CAN be had from at least one team member
How to extend the never ending conversation with the garrulous host, by David
The West Highland Way Procession
Lady Buckley and the Midgies
The Dovers Dog midgie warning & closing the window incident
How to climb a difficult style with the gate open, by Yvonne.
Making friends with Glum and Glummer
Will Andy finish the boat in time?
“The worst is behind us’ by David (Monday)
‘The worst is behind us’ by David (Tuesday)
‘The worst is ………. never mind’ by David (Wednesday)
Frances ‘mugged’ by a chicken at Rory’s forest Café
Mr Buckley’s booking? ….. YOU were expected LAST Night!
Frances caught with her pants down despite Lady Buckleys warning.
David…. there are 2 places called Laggan and we’re booked in the one 50 miles away??
How to pick a snipe by its long tail by Richard
posted by Richard
Monday, August 31, 2009
The Great Glen Way
In the customary early morning drizzle we departed Fort William eagerly anticipating our first day on the Great Glen Way. We soon joined the Caledonian Canal at Neptune's Staircase, a flight of locks which allowed shipping access to Loch Lochy and the lochs further north. At Gairlochy the Canal issued out into the Loch and we began a traverse along the loch on a series of forest rides not far from the waterside and for once relatively flat walking. Some 34km later we arrived in South Laggan where an accommodation mixup (2 Laggans in Scotland!!) saw us homeless but we were rescued by Isabel at Invergarry where we spent the night.
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
Thursday, August 27, 2009
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