By now we have announced that we have made it to the end of a long but unbelievable journey.
However for the sake of completeness I'll give a quick outline of our last 3 days on the track. Although we were forced to take to tarmac through lack of public footpaths we were still able to enjoy the route.
Leaving Helmsdale we were able to take advantage of a new section of the A9 which cut a little distance off the walk for the day and gave us a wider verge to escape from the traffic which continued to roar past on its way north. The road snaked its way up a steep hillside on the Ord of Caithness, the high cliffs being punctuated by narrow inlets (geos). We passed but didn't visit the lost village of Badbea, the ruins of which commemmorate the 80 crofters which following eviction struggled to make a living ina bleak and desolate location. We plunged down to the hamlet of Berriedale before zigzagging up once more to take a more level approach into Watten. It was a fine and sunny day and at the top of the rise we were greeted with our first views of the coastline stretching towards John O Groats - cause for celebration!! The coast road continued north into Dunbeath and the spectacular privately owned Dunbeath Castlebefore reaching Latheron another former herring fishing village. Passing one of the few native broadleaf forests we struggled on to Lybster our stopping place for the night.
The following morning we manged a quick look at the tiny harbour in Lybster before heading off the A9 a short distance north and on a long, direct and quite deserted road towards Watten.
Some distance along the road we passed the Grey Cairns of Camster which were most worthy of further inspection. Two large neolithic chambered cairns, one round and the other long they were pretty much intact after some restoration work and we were able to crawl through a narrow passage into the inner chamber of the larger cairn. Built in the Stone Age about 4 - 5000 years ago they were thought to be huge burial tombs for local chieftains - a bit of a creepy experience but thankfully no skeletons!! As we approached Watten the country became even more desolate with mainly moorland and the occasional pasture supporting some sheep.
We were pleased to reach Watten, a small town supported by the excellent fishing on the nearby loch, but after a short rest decided to walk on past Loch Watten towards JOG for a couple of hours to shorten our journey on the final day. We returned to Watten for the night.
The final few miles from our stopping place were accomplished fairly easily the following day.
Although the day was fine and a bit chilly views of the northern isles were a bit misty much to ur disappointment. However we were able to appreciate the starkness of the both the island of Stroma and of the Orkneys, Stroma being privately owned and the Orkneys being accessed by a number of ferry services one of which departs from JOG. Suddenly about 4 -5 kms out of JOG we were able to see the outline of turrets of the now disused John O Groats Hotel our final destination. The last few kilometres seemed to take forever but then we were there!!
Tired but elated and probably relieved that we could now give our feet a rest!!
A heartfelt thanks to all those people who have supported us throughout the last 3 months especially Richard without whom the walk would not have been possible and the people who kept things going in Hobart while we have been away. Also many thanks to our sponsors.
It is great to think we will be able to make our contribution to the work of Dr Catherine Hamlin and the Fistula Hospital in Ethiopia. And it is not too late for last minute contributions if anyone is interested.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Saturday, September 12, 2009
WE'RE THERE !!!
Some Overall Observations
The three walkers, David, Yvonne and Frances covered 1850 km in 3 months supported by Richard during which:
- None of the four fell ill or suffered any injury at all (apart from minor foot wear & tear).
- The car covered over 4000 km with only one minor undercarriage ding from a hidden rock.
- No relative or close friends fell seriously ill or worse, requiring any rescheduling.
- All but 2 of the 74 forward bookings worked as planned. One was a day out and the other was booked at a town with the same name, 50 miles away.
- The walkers utilised as much as possible recognised long distance walking tracks and where this was not possible, canal, bicycle and disused railway paths together with minor roads resulting more distance resulting in a minimum time on busy A roads.
- In doing so they passed through some of the most scenic and spectacular parts of the UK on some of the most demanding parts of the toughest walking trails such on the Pennine way, the Cornish coastal path and the West Highland way.
- We had on the whole fairly good quality B & B standard accommodation however the schedule required a real discipline with breakfast around 8am walking around 9.30 and usually finishing around 5-6 pm.
- The average days walk was 25 km per day.
- Apart from a couple of fine and hot weeks in June the weather was awful, particularly in Scotland.
- Yvonne and Frances burst into tears on arrival at JOG and who could blame them!
- We developed into a very compatible group and had a lot of fun despite the relentless walking demands.
- Additional walkers joined the team and added to the experience - LT and Joni who walked from Bath to Manchester, then LT again back for more with Andy for the full on last week, as well as Tim, Tammy, Matilda and Christine for special days.
Donor Recognition
Recent contributions to the Hamlin Fistula hospital included the Sandhole Farm at Codlington, Navidale House Hotel near Helmsdale, Dyall & Kathy Davies from London, the Manchester Didsbury walkers, Alan and Ingrid Gilbert and Scott & Mirella from Hobart. Many thanks for your generosity. The full list will be acknowledged later
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
The Final Stage
After a day in Inverness where we scuttled about under brollies to avoid the drenching rain and with stories of severe local flooding we walked ot of Inverness along the swollen and fast-flowing River Ness to cross the busy Kessock Bridge across the mouth of the Beauly Firth. north of the bridge we took a peaceful path firthside before heading northward into forest and pasture.
There followed a daunting crossing of the causeway across the Cromarty Firth which was teeming with all manner of trucks and vehicles. One surprising sight was a number of massive oil rigs in the Firth either waiting for repairs or to be towed to their sites in the North Sea. From the end of the causeway it was a straightforward route via roads and a cycle path running parallel to the A9 via Evanton to Alness passing the Fyrish Monument, another hillside folly, on the way. Alness only claim to fame appeared to be as recipient of a number of 'Britain in Bloom' awards but given it is now autumn the floral displays were beginning to look a bit weary.
From Alness we took to the empty lanes at the back of the town and headed into the Ardross Forest stopping for a coffee at a wildlife park near Aldieburn before reaching the town of Tain which was rather mieval looking and which traces its roots back to the 11th century. Heading out of town we passed the Glenmorangie Distillery before crossing another very busy bridge over the Dornoch Firth. On the far side of the bridge we took the minor road into Dornoch. Dornoch proved to be a fascinating and handsome town with a beautiful Cathedral, the site it would seem of Madonna's wedding. Apparently it was also the site of the last witch-burning in Scotland.
We took tea at the very fine Dornoch Castle Hotel and an early dinner before walking out of the town a further 5km to our accommodation at the very isolated but very comfortable Four Penny Cottage.The following morning some were treated to the sight of roe deer grazing in a nearby paddock at breakfast before we set off to join the lane past the ruins of Skelbo Castle along the southern shore of Loch Fleet. This is a national nature reserve which was once a sea loch but ashingle build-up at the mouth has turned it into a lagoon that supports all kind of wildlife including thousands of birds. A large number of seals were spotted lazing on the mudflats. Having crossed the bridge on the A9 we cut across as soon as possible into a stand of ancient Scots forest featuring Scots pine, heather and lichens - very beautiful and quite unique. We emerged on to the Golspie Links golf course and followed this into Golspie where we enjoyeda sandwich on the seawall in bright sunshine. A delightful seaside path then took us out of Golspie along the coastal sward to Brora. The highlight of this walk was a tour of Dunrobin Castle which claims to be one of Britain's oldest continuously inhabited houses. Containing 189 rooms it dates back to the early 1300s but was remodelled to its current fairy tale appearance in 1841. Home to the Dukes of Sutherland it featured a fascinating collection of their memorabilia, elegantly furnished rooms and beautiful gardens inspired by those at Versailles. Beyond the Castle the path passed an ancient circular stone tower or broch. These defensive homesteads are commonly associated with the Picts and are peculiar to northern Scotland. As it was low tide we were able to walk along the beach where we again passed a number of seals with their babies on the shore or perched on neighbouring rocks. overnight at the small village of Brora.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
The following morning we followed the wide sandy beach north of Brora for about 2 miles before Andy and I climbed onto the A9 and the others opted for a less noisy route along the shore.
As the A9 wound northwards we became more aware of a growing remoteness with the high rough moorland closing in on our left and the North Sea on our right. Not long after passing through Port Gower we were relieved to reach a footpath which led us over a bridge into the town of Brora which has proved to be a most interesting place for a rest day. The modern development of Helmsdale was based on the herring fishing industry centred on a picturesque harbour but the fishing fleets have now disappeared. The history of the town is charted at a modern visitor centre 'Time and Space' which relates the story of the infamous Highland Clearances (the Duke of Sutherland removing crofters from their meagre holdings to introduce sheep farming) and the 19th century gold rush in nearby Strath of Kildonan which was agin put to an end by the Duke of Sutherland. Below the town runs the River Helmsdale famous for its salmon fishing, the rights to which are held by a consortium of 6 influential people and are issued by invitation only. The Visitor Centre informed us that the record for the heaviest fish ever caught there was by a ghillie of Lady Liverpool and it weighed in at 37lb.We made a mid afternoon visit to inspect the harbour and by this time galeforce winds had whipped the sea into a frenzy with large waves breaking over the breakwater - a spectacular sight. Our accommodation at the Navidale Hotel about a mile from the town is a former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Sutherland and is located on a cliff above the shore - well positioned to again give us splendid views out over the windswept North Sea.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
MORE MEMORABLE MOMENTS
Details CAN be had from at least one team member
How to extend the never ending conversation with the garrulous host, by David
The West Highland Way Procession
Lady Buckley and the Midgies
The Dovers Dog midgie warning & closing the window incident
How to climb a difficult style with the gate open, by Yvonne.
Making friends with Glum and Glummer
Will Andy finish the boat in time?
“The worst is behind us’ by David (Monday)
‘The worst is behind us’ by David (Tuesday)
‘The worst is ………. never mind’ by David (Wednesday)
Frances ‘mugged’ by a chicken at Rory’s forest Café
Mr Buckley’s booking? ….. YOU were expected LAST Night!
Frances caught with her pants down despite Lady Buckleys warning.
David…. there are 2 places called Laggan and we’re booked in the one 50 miles away??
How to pick a snipe by its long tail by Richard
posted by Richard
Monday, August 31, 2009
The Great Glen Way
In the customary early morning drizzle we departed Fort William eagerly anticipating our first day on the Great Glen Way. We soon joined the Caledonian Canal at Neptune's Staircase, a flight of locks which allowed shipping access to Loch Lochy and the lochs further north. At Gairlochy the Canal issued out into the Loch and we began a traverse along the loch on a series of forest rides not far from the waterside and for once relatively flat walking. Some 34km later we arrived in South Laggan where an accommodation mixup (2 Laggans in Scotland!!) saw us homeless but we were rescued by Isabel at Invergarry where we spent the night.
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
More from The West Highland Way
Leaving Inverarnan we wound our way along the floor of Glen Falloch along the line of an 18th century military road. Under General Wade the English introduced a systematic road system in the Highlands to enable their troops to move swiftly and effectively. One of these well-made routes is now the basis for long chunks of the West Highland Way north of Loch Lomond. From high in the trees above Crianlarich the giant pyramidal shape of Ben More came to view before we descended through the forest to reach the remains of St Fillans Priory (StFillan w2as an 8th century monk who wandered the Highlands preaching Christianity. The Way followed the bank of the River Fillan into Tyndrum an old lead mining town. The remainder of our journey was quite memorable as we walked the road in company with the railway along the bottom of Glen Orchy, the views being dominated by huge mountains, the most prominent of which was Beinn Doran which loomed overhead. Our journey for the day concluded at Bridge of Orchy, a small and isolated outpost.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
Monday, August 24, 2009
The West Highland Way
From Strathblane we headed west to join thye West Highland Way. A rather inconsiderate land owner forced us on to a very muddy path for part of thir roue which diminshed our enjoyment of soft woodland, nesting swans and serene lakeland. However our good humour returned with a decent coffee and lunch at the Wishing Well not long after we joined the Way and much better paths. The path continued along the former railway line to the hamlet of Gartness where we followed a lane into the village of Drymen. Remants of an old Roman fort and the Antoninw Wall could be seen on our approach to Drymen as rain again set in.
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Memorable Moments
Details may be available from various team members or in Frances’ diary:
The latent flasher and the left behind lacy underwear incident
The Buckley / Watson accommodation grading system
The fattest person contest
How to handle a herd of wild horses (or bullocks) by David
How to clear the fence the fastest way by David (and Frances)
The lost room booking and the blow up them beds occasion
How to ignore the ‘Dyson’ by Richard
How to attract dogs by David
What to do with the unwanted full greasy breakfast
‘Come this way its not boggy’ Yvonne incident.
The aggressive land owner and a momentary loss of temper incident.
Can we get a lift on that canal boat through the 2 mile tunnel?
The ‘Imelda Marcus’ walking shoe collection contest (easily won by Yvonne)
The oldest visitors book in a 1792 pub and the 1923 Hobartians visit.
The jingle jangle room key incident.
The ‘worst in your face hostess’ contest.
Has Jo got Swine Flu??
Is there a film that LT does not know all about?
Can LT get his pint of coke fix here?
The daily map reading sessions.
How to have dinner with the same people for 90 nights and still laugh.
Have we got Internet connection?
Padstow, David and the icecream loving seagull.
Joni in the short skirt and the distracted driver accident
Posted by Richard
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Scotland at last
We were delighted that Chris decided to join us for our journey to Melrose the following day leaving Brian to investigate the local salmon fishing spots. From Jedburgh we found our way back to Dere Street and wound our way along the River Teviot . Crossing a new suspension bridge we visited the beautiful gardens of Monteviot House and passed the Waterloo Monument before rejoining the River Tweed for lunch at St Boswells. On our way out we passed Dryburgh Abbey from the 12th century which holds the grave of Sir Walter Scott. The rest of the day was spent skirting the 3 Eildon Hills to follow the St Cuthbert’s Way into the second of the principal Scottish border towns of Melrose. Melrose Abbey ruins which we visited later that evening were most atmospheric, again founded in the 12th century but destroyed by English raids in the 14th century.
Another very scenic stretch by the River Tweed the next morning led us past numerous very large estates with very large gardens and on to Yair Bridge. A simple uneventful afternoon’s stroll followed into Innerleithen – very unimpressive. However Traquair House was a couple of miles down the road where we began our walk the next day. Traquair House is believed to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland – a royal hunting lodge over 1000 years old – frequented by Mary Queen of Scots. From Traquair we skirted the hills to Peebles – again a very lively border town dating back to 1367 – very Scottish – even spotted a few kilts. With rain falling we left the town by Neidpath Castle to begin a tortupous afternoon’s walk which included a steep and rough climb to the summit of White Meldon followed by a worse descent over boggy hillside into a forestry plantation and a wet and muddy path into Romannobridge before some welcome road walking into West Linton. Overnight at Carlops a nearby village to dry out.
But the next day the rain continued as we tackled the Pentland Hills to give us access to Edinburgh. We were reminded that the “glorious 12th” the start of the grouse shooting season had finally arrived with sound of gunshots at periodic intervals throughout the day. We climbed out of West Linton to Baddingsgill Reservoir before taking to the Thieves Road on Cauldstone Slap. The summit was a godforsaken place – wild and bleak and as usual not a soul to be seen apart from a couple of woolly highland cattle. It was not hard to imagine the cattle rustlers hiding amongst the heather ready to surprise the drovers on their journey to the market towns. The steady rains had converted the tracks to streams and we had to wade the fords. At the top of Corston Hill Edinburgh and Arthur’s seat came into view and this helped us to cross yet another section of water and bog before we crossed into the Almondell and Calder Country Park a quiet and pretty woodland through which a disused railway track took us to Uphall our stopping off destination for Edinburgh.
The last couple of days have been spent “resting” in Edinburgh. The city is teeming with people as it is Festival and Fringe Festival time. The Festival events are all fully booked but David and I have taken in a couple of excellent stand-up comedy shows – our own Sammy J and another superb performance called Frisky and Mannish – as well as a craft fair and an exhibition of prize winners in a world-wide press photography competition at the new Scottish Parliament House - and of course the famous Edinburgh historic sites. Tonight the Tattoo and tomorrow we resume our march northwards.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Heading west
Shaking Edinburgh off we resumed our journey to head west in the direction of Glasgow from Uphall. Despite its close proximity to the city the path was surprisingly rural with patches of woodland. At Linlithgow we joined the Union Canal which proved to have an excellent and very pretty tow path but with the absence of the house boats we had seen further south. There were other surprises too as we crossed a magnificent aqueduct, 273m long which spanned the River Avon and further on entered a tunnel about 1km in length under Callender Park. Apparently the estate owner at the time of construction would not allow the canal in sight of Callender House.
We also passed a very large newly constructed prison for young offenders on the banks of the canal at a rather ugly industrial estate at Polmont - not hard to imagine that the need for these institutions are growing after having observed behaviour in Edinburgh. Leaving the canal we headed into the centre of Falkirk, quite modern and busy, for the night.
The canal beckoned again the following morning and we scurried along the tow path for a couple of kilometres anxious to catch our first sight of the Falkirk Wheel. We were not disappointed as this ambitious construction came to view. Built at a cost of about 78 million pounds as part of the Millenium Link it replaces the need for 11 locks and links the Union with the Forth & Clyde Canals so the canal runs from the Forth right through to the Clyde. Like a huge ferris wheel it lifts boats a height of about 33 metres. The site also features a state of the art visitor centre which served a decent coffee so it received a big tick!! Beyond the Wheel the canal tow path ran aparallel with the Antonine Wall, a return to things Roman - 60 km long it was built in AD142 to reflect Rome's short-lived push north. Not a lot remains but we were able to see grassy remains of forts at Croy Hill near Kilsyth and the large ditch that was dug in front of the wall. Entering Kilsyth we climbed the hill to Allenfauld Farm to enjoy great hospitality from the Mc Gregors.
Despite the ongoing rain David and I decided to catch the train from Croy into Glasgow where we joined a late afternoon tour of Charles Rennie McIntosh's architecture and furniture making at the Glasgow School of Art and dinner in the Merchant Square area of the city.
Today was the last day on the Canal. After an easy stroll along the tow path under threatening skies we left the tow path at Kirkintilloch to head north-west on a cycle path to Strathblane in the direction of Loch Lomond. The skies opened up again and the already fast-flowing streams became torrents as we passed lovely rural countryside with a backdrop of increasingly green and craggy hillsides. The cycle path was on another former transport route - Gartness-Kirkintilloch Railway and took us through Milton of Campsie and Lennoxtown to Strathblane coming out at the entrance to Mugdock Country Park.
We also passed a very large newly constructed prison for young offenders on the banks of the canal at a rather ugly industrial estate at Polmont - not hard to imagine that the need for these institutions are growing after having observed behaviour in Edinburgh. Leaving the canal we headed into the centre of Falkirk, quite modern and busy, for the night.
The canal beckoned again the following morning and we scurried along the tow path for a couple of kilometres anxious to catch our first sight of the Falkirk Wheel. We were not disappointed as this ambitious construction came to view. Built at a cost of about 78 million pounds as part of the Millenium Link it replaces the need for 11 locks and links the Union with the Forth & Clyde Canals so the canal runs from the Forth right through to the Clyde. Like a huge ferris wheel it lifts boats a height of about 33 metres. The site also features a state of the art visitor centre which served a decent coffee so it received a big tick!! Beyond the Wheel the canal tow path ran aparallel with the Antonine Wall, a return to things Roman - 60 km long it was built in AD142 to reflect Rome's short-lived push north. Not a lot remains but we were able to see grassy remains of forts at Croy Hill near Kilsyth and the large ditch that was dug in front of the wall. Entering Kilsyth we climbed the hill to Allenfauld Farm to enjoy great hospitality from the Mc Gregors.
Despite the ongoing rain David and I decided to catch the train from Croy into Glasgow where we joined a late afternoon tour of Charles Rennie McIntosh's architecture and furniture making at the Glasgow School of Art and dinner in the Merchant Square area of the city.
Today was the last day on the Canal. After an easy stroll along the tow path under threatening skies we left the tow path at Kirkintilloch to head north-west on a cycle path to Strathblane in the direction of Loch Lomond. The skies opened up again and the already fast-flowing streams became torrents as we passed lovely rural countryside with a backdrop of increasingly green and craggy hillsides. The cycle path was on another former transport route - Gartness-Kirkintilloch Railway and took us through Milton of Campsie and Lennoxtown to Strathblane coming out at the entrance to Mugdock Country Park.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
PAST 1000 KM & REFLECTIONS ON A DAY IN THE LIFE OF THE ‘SUPPORT TEAM’
A solid breakfast usually around 8am followed a team meeting on the day’s walk to decide a suitable lunch spot as well as the final pickup point if the team was not walking to our accommodation, which was often somewhat off the walk route. All of us would pack the wagon and the walkers would set off in shorts or full wet weather gear – usually the later, as July was one of the wettest in UK records.
I would then spend an hour or two catching up with emails and any business demands, coffee and then, if time, find a gym (3/4 times a week) then meet the troops for lunch if there was a inviting pub as there usually was, on the route. If I located a suitable golf course or someone I knew, would play one or two rounds during the week. There have been some great courses with standouts Royal North Devon, Burnham Berrow, Taunton, etc.
All this sounds a bit like a walk in the park however consider this – the route follows long distance walking tracks through some of the loveliest and more isolated (if that is possible)parts of the UK involving very narrow lanes and roads, often one car width with irregular passing points. Some were not on the larger maps and able to confuse even the GPS so getting to some of the pubs and particularly the pick up points could be tricky; then add in driving rain and traffic, always cars, more cars and much time and swearing would eventuate. Then actually finding the accommodation, particularly B & B’s was another, sometimes very difficult, hurdle. On arriving later in the afternoon I would check our booking (only two pubs have ‘lost’ ours to date) and then take the girls cases to their rooms, inevitably up one or two flights of stairs
Finding the walkers and the agreed point was quite challenging in the lanes and they were very often much later than estimated because of the track or weather conditions. The rain was a real factor and of course when picking up the ‘walkers’ who, despite good wet weather gear, would look rather drowned, as well as very tired and then all piling in for a ‘steamed up’ trip to the accommodation. Then we add Yvonne’s daughter Jo, and David’s friend LT, who joined us in Bath for a couple of weeks, to the mix!
At the half way point had a great stay for a few days with our friends Alan and Ingrid Gilbert in Manchester and much needed recuperation and a really nice party with some local walkers. A sorry farewell to Jo and LT followed ……… and then back to our core group
Then on to the Yorkshire moors, rain and more rain and much more mud – peat bogs this time, one of which nearly swallowed up Yvonne!
Despite driving over 1500 km in these conditions I was pleased we had only one underside dent caused by a lane side hidden rock in one passing episode! Can we say the same about the condition of the walkers? Indeed we can, what a great team they are, for despite muscle soreness, foot problems and tiredness they have come through stronger than ever with Yvonne setting a new record for the number of walking shoes brought and used!
Now looking forward to the final push to the summit – John O’Groats, over the next month with expectations about much improved weather for Scotland including the Edinburgh festival.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
The Pennine Way continues
A day off and we decided to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle and the magnificent Bowes Museum. The museum, a palatial building set in beautiful landscaped gardens was built by John and Josephine Bowes to house their extensive collection of European artwork, silver, textiles, furniture and fine porcelain. John Bowes was the illegitimate son of the Earl of Strathmore whose brother was the grandfather of the Queen Mother - an interesting connection!!. The highlight of the collection was the musically automated Silver Swan.
The following morning began with a riverside walk along the River Tees - wild flowers everywhere bordered a bubbling stream. Passing the Wynch Bridge, built in 1704 and claimed to be the first suspension bridge in England we moved on to the pleasant waterfall at Low Force and the to its much more spectacular brother High Force which plunged thunderously over the Whin Sill (low dark cliffs of dolerite) into the dark peaty pools below. We were amused by a group of schoolchildren who were being tossed into the river below the falls to freefall the rapids - not always willingly. The area round the falls was part of the large estate belonging to the eccentric hippie Lord Barnard from nearby Raby Castle - which explained the complete lack of safety from our side of the falls. The story goes that Lord Barnard has ordained that all property on his estate is to be limewashed with blue lintels so that he can identify them -apparently resulting from an occasion when he was trying to find a safe haven on his drunken return from a local pub. Our path then switched banks at Forest in Teesdale to continue to Saur Hill Bridge and on to Langton Beck - a solitary hotel (belonging to Lord Barnard) and our destination for the night.
A fairly straightforward section the next morning along a moorland path where we have taken to identifying the various breeds of sheep we meet, of which there are many, and a rocky descent into the small village of Garrigill, the a relatively easy walk alongside the river South Tyne into Alston which claims to be the highest market town in England and which at one point inj the 19th century was the world's biggest lead producer. Alston proved to be a very agrreable stopping place with a number of craft shops and a picturesque railway station which has been restored following the partial re-opening of the narrow gauge steam railway betwwen Alston and Gerenhead.
The following day in beautiful sunshine we commenced with a walk along the footpath at the side of the rail track and the on the site of the track itself all the way into Greenhead. At Lambley we came across an attractive arched viaduct over the South Tyne River which with National Trust assistance has now been restored and with this crossing we continued on to Featherstone and coffee ( a rare opportunity!!) at the Wallace Arms at Featherstone. From there the path took us on to Haltwhistle where we again crossed the South Tyne, before climbing up hill to finish at the Milecastle Inn about 3 km north and our first sighting of Hadrian's Wall - a much anticipated experience. we were collected and taken to Greenhead for the night where we again caught up with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
Resuming the following day at Hadrian's Wall we began in beautiful walk along an 8km route of the Wall. It proved to most interesting but also quite demanding with a large number of ups and downs. Commissioned By Emperor Hadrian in AD122 it represented Rome's norther frontier for 250 years. MOst of the Wall we walked was still standing together with evidence of the defensive ditch to its north and another, the Vallum to the south which defined the military zone. At Rapshaw Gap we left the Wall and headed north across the moorland, into the conifer plantations of Wark Forest and then into another vast expanse of solitary moorland. Further woodland led us to undulating farmland around Warks Burn, much need-water and a cheese scone from a local farmer, a steep climb up to Ealingham Rigg where we confronted another large herd of cows, calves and yet another large brown bull. heeding the warning signs and advice from the farmer we dodged the herd and descended into the little grey town of Bellingham.
From Bellingham the next morning it was back to the moorland with more evidence of grouse activity - birds and butts. By now the heather is coming in to bloom and we were surrounded by purple-covered hills before descending into the yet more forested hillsides of the Redesdale Forest. We finally dropped down into Blakehopeburnhaugh and Cottonhopeburnfoot, only memorable for their long names, and ended our stage at Byrness, a forestry village built for workers in the 1930s.
The Pennine Way headed straight up the forested hillside out of Byrness the following day to emerge on the open moorland on the exposed tops of the Cheviot Hills. It was a wet start to the day which only added to the discomfort of a path which the Guidebook aptly described as equal quantities of peat, water and bath sponges. Slow progress took us over Houx Hill and Ravens Knowe to Chew Green and the remains of a Roman army camp where we picked up the old Roman road Dere Street. Dere Street originally ran from York to the Forth near Edinburgh and was built during the governorship of Agricola 79 to 83AD, 40 years before Hadrain built the wall.
Passing through the gates at Black Halls we left England for the last time on the Trail following Dere Street until another navigational error necessitated the use of minor roads and added a further 2km to our journey into Jedburgh. Apart from a much celebrated entry into Scotland we recorded our longest walking day to date - 33km over 9 hours with a 15 minute break for lunch.
As I write we are enjoying a rswt day in Jedburgh. It is one of the main border towns with a long history including the ruins of Jedburgh Abbey founded by King David1 in 1118 for Augustinian canons but destroyed in 1545. We will joined shortly by Chris and Brian Bennett - Chris will be part of the team for the walk tomorrow.
The following morning began with a riverside walk along the River Tees - wild flowers everywhere bordered a bubbling stream. Passing the Wynch Bridge, built in 1704 and claimed to be the first suspension bridge in England we moved on to the pleasant waterfall at Low Force and the to its much more spectacular brother High Force which plunged thunderously over the Whin Sill (low dark cliffs of dolerite) into the dark peaty pools below. We were amused by a group of schoolchildren who were being tossed into the river below the falls to freefall the rapids - not always willingly. The area round the falls was part of the large estate belonging to the eccentric hippie Lord Barnard from nearby Raby Castle - which explained the complete lack of safety from our side of the falls. The story goes that Lord Barnard has ordained that all property on his estate is to be limewashed with blue lintels so that he can identify them -apparently resulting from an occasion when he was trying to find a safe haven on his drunken return from a local pub. Our path then switched banks at Forest in Teesdale to continue to Saur Hill Bridge and on to Langton Beck - a solitary hotel (belonging to Lord Barnard) and our destination for the night.
A fairly straightforward section the next morning along a moorland path where we have taken to identifying the various breeds of sheep we meet, of which there are many, and a rocky descent into the small village of Garrigill, the a relatively easy walk alongside the river South Tyne into Alston which claims to be the highest market town in England and which at one point inj the 19th century was the world's biggest lead producer. Alston proved to be a very agrreable stopping place with a number of craft shops and a picturesque railway station which has been restored following the partial re-opening of the narrow gauge steam railway betwwen Alston and Gerenhead.
The following day in beautiful sunshine we commenced with a walk along the footpath at the side of the rail track and the on the site of the track itself all the way into Greenhead. At Lambley we came across an attractive arched viaduct over the South Tyne River which with National Trust assistance has now been restored and with this crossing we continued on to Featherstone and coffee ( a rare opportunity!!) at the Wallace Arms at Featherstone. From there the path took us on to Haltwhistle where we again crossed the South Tyne, before climbing up hill to finish at the Milecastle Inn about 3 km north and our first sighting of Hadrian's Wall - a much anticipated experience. we were collected and taken to Greenhead for the night where we again caught up with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
Resuming the following day at Hadrian's Wall we began in beautiful walk along an 8km route of the Wall. It proved to most interesting but also quite demanding with a large number of ups and downs. Commissioned By Emperor Hadrian in AD122 it represented Rome's norther frontier for 250 years. MOst of the Wall we walked was still standing together with evidence of the defensive ditch to its north and another, the Vallum to the south which defined the military zone. At Rapshaw Gap we left the Wall and headed north across the moorland, into the conifer plantations of Wark Forest and then into another vast expanse of solitary moorland. Further woodland led us to undulating farmland around Warks Burn, much need-water and a cheese scone from a local farmer, a steep climb up to Ealingham Rigg where we confronted another large herd of cows, calves and yet another large brown bull. heeding the warning signs and advice from the farmer we dodged the herd and descended into the little grey town of Bellingham.
From Bellingham the next morning it was back to the moorland with more evidence of grouse activity - birds and butts. By now the heather is coming in to bloom and we were surrounded by purple-covered hills before descending into the yet more forested hillsides of the Redesdale Forest. We finally dropped down into Blakehopeburnhaugh and Cottonhopeburnfoot, only memorable for their long names, and ended our stage at Byrness, a forestry village built for workers in the 1930s.
The Pennine Way headed straight up the forested hillside out of Byrness the following day to emerge on the open moorland on the exposed tops of the Cheviot Hills. It was a wet start to the day which only added to the discomfort of a path which the Guidebook aptly described as equal quantities of peat, water and bath sponges. Slow progress took us over Houx Hill and Ravens Knowe to Chew Green and the remains of a Roman army camp where we picked up the old Roman road Dere Street. Dere Street originally ran from York to the Forth near Edinburgh and was built during the governorship of Agricola 79 to 83AD, 40 years before Hadrain built the wall.
Passing through the gates at Black Halls we left England for the last time on the Trail following Dere Street until another navigational error necessitated the use of minor roads and added a further 2km to our journey into Jedburgh. Apart from a much celebrated entry into Scotland we recorded our longest walking day to date - 33km over 9 hours with a 15 minute break for lunch.
As I write we are enjoying a rswt day in Jedburgh. It is one of the main border towns with a long history including the ruins of Jedburgh Abbey founded by King David1 in 1118 for Augustinian canons but destroyed in 1545. We will joined shortly by Chris and Brian Bennett - Chris will be part of the team for the walk tomorrow.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
More of the Pennine Way
Malham proved to be a surprisingly popular town and one which boasted the magnificent Malham Cove, a massive natural amphitheatre whose 80m cliff-face once boasted a stunning waterfall. Climbing out of Malham Covealong its western edge we encountered a fascinating water-eroded limestone pavement worn down to criss-crossed blocks with deep fissures in between. a wayward turn the had us incurring the wrath of a local klandowner before we rectified the error and proceeded to Malham Tarn and the field centre at Malham Hall on the shore of the lake. A long climb then took us up on to Fountains Fell the on to Pen y Ghent the highest point on the Pennine Way so far at about 2200 feet. We stopped short of a final ascent to its peak and took a long downhill path strewn with limestone onto Horton in Ribblesdale.
The following morning we were awoken by groups of walkers heading off in heavy rain to do the popular but challenging 'Three Peaks' walk - a distance of 25 miles covering Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - all of similar heights.
The rain continued as we left Horton-in Ribblesdale and this eased to a heavy fog as we ascended to Birkwith Moor and Cave Hill. About 2 hours later the mist cleared and the sun shone to reveal the spectacular slopes of sourrounding moorland and we continued along the Cam High Road which had Roman origins (Agricola) over Dodd Fell and all the way down into the bustling village of Hawes (capital of 'Wensleyvale') where we enjoyed an afternoon tea of fruitcake and cheese, a Yorkshire specialty.
The following morning it was upwards again - this time a very steep climb on to the Great Shunner Fell at 2350 feet. In the distance we could see the outline of the Lake District mountains before we descended to the village of Thwaite for lunch. A fairly tricky path over a number of limestone scree slopes led us on the Pennine Way though the Swaledale Valley to Keld before we ascended once more to an old packhorse track along Stonedale Moor to reach Tan Hill - a famously remote pub which boasys about being the highest pub in England. The pub was originally built to serve the miners who worked the pits and quarries which still scar the surrounding landscape - lead and limestone. We enjoyeda refreshing ale in a convivial atmosphere- apart from your normal accommodation the pub also offers walkers a spot on the lounge for 10 pounds per night and live music from 10pm to 3am every night. Unfortunately we had rooms booked at Thwaite so returned there for the evening.
On the following day we resumed at Tan Hill to leave the Yorkshire Dales behind to cross Sleightholme Moor. As this section has a reputation for beingvery wet and boggy we opted to take a minor road aptly called the 'Long Causeway' and a track called Sleightholme Moor Road back to the main route at Sleightholme Beck. Our only experience with any form of life was the occasional flock of grouse flying unexpectedly from out of the grass in front of us. Just before crossing under the busy A66 on a stretch of quiet and empty moorland I had my first encounter with the bog where an untested step had me knee-deep in mud and sinking. However I was able extricate myself and continue, albeit with somewhat uncomfortable trousers and shoes!! The Pennine Way continued northwards through walled pastures (high stone stiles!) past a couple of large reservoirs and over successive hillsides ('false summits' to weary walkers) and down into Middleton-in-Teesdale. 150 years ago this town was the centre of the local leadmining industry dominated by the Quaker-run London Lead Mining Company which folded early 20th century.
We are taking advantage of a rest day today to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle.
The following morning we were awoken by groups of walkers heading off in heavy rain to do the popular but challenging 'Three Peaks' walk - a distance of 25 miles covering Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - all of similar heights.
The rain continued as we left Horton-in Ribblesdale and this eased to a heavy fog as we ascended to Birkwith Moor and Cave Hill. About 2 hours later the mist cleared and the sun shone to reveal the spectacular slopes of sourrounding moorland and we continued along the Cam High Road which had Roman origins (Agricola) over Dodd Fell and all the way down into the bustling village of Hawes (capital of 'Wensleyvale') where we enjoyed an afternoon tea of fruitcake and cheese, a Yorkshire specialty.
The following morning it was upwards again - this time a very steep climb on to the Great Shunner Fell at 2350 feet. In the distance we could see the outline of the Lake District mountains before we descended to the village of Thwaite for lunch. A fairly tricky path over a number of limestone scree slopes led us on the Pennine Way though the Swaledale Valley to Keld before we ascended once more to an old packhorse track along Stonedale Moor to reach Tan Hill - a famously remote pub which boasys about being the highest pub in England. The pub was originally built to serve the miners who worked the pits and quarries which still scar the surrounding landscape - lead and limestone. We enjoyeda refreshing ale in a convivial atmosphere- apart from your normal accommodation the pub also offers walkers a spot on the lounge for 10 pounds per night and live music from 10pm to 3am every night. Unfortunately we had rooms booked at Thwaite so returned there for the evening.
On the following day we resumed at Tan Hill to leave the Yorkshire Dales behind to cross Sleightholme Moor. As this section has a reputation for beingvery wet and boggy we opted to take a minor road aptly called the 'Long Causeway' and a track called Sleightholme Moor Road back to the main route at Sleightholme Beck. Our only experience with any form of life was the occasional flock of grouse flying unexpectedly from out of the grass in front of us. Just before crossing under the busy A66 on a stretch of quiet and empty moorland I had my first encounter with the bog where an untested step had me knee-deep in mud and sinking. However I was able extricate myself and continue, albeit with somewhat uncomfortable trousers and shoes!! The Pennine Way continued northwards through walled pastures (high stone stiles!) past a couple of large reservoirs and over successive hillsides ('false summits' to weary walkers) and down into Middleton-in-Teesdale. 150 years ago this town was the centre of the local leadmining industry dominated by the Quaker-run London Lead Mining Company which folded early 20th century.
We are taking advantage of a rest day today to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
The Pennine Way
A wonderful 3 days were spent in Manchester at the home of Allan and Ingrid Gilbert at Didsbury.
Their beautiful home gave us much needed rest and the chance to prepare for the next stage. We enjoyed watching a family of foxes playing in the garden each evening.
It gave us the opportunity to spend a bit of time exploring this great city, to admire its architecture and to visit a couple of museums. These included the Rylands library and its private collection of priceless books and manuscripts including pieces from the first printed Bible, and the very impressive Lowry Centre at Salford which featured a gallery of his work. We were also appreciative of the enjoyable luncheon hosted by Allan and Ingrid which raised funds for our charity, the Fistula Hospital in Ethiopia.
Rather reluctantly we farewelled Manchester and returned to Broadbottom where an east stroll took us to Crowden and the much anticipated start of the Pennine Way. A steady plod took us up past Ladlow Rocks on a steep, rocky and very wet path on to the moorland. Our destination was Black Hill which had been described as infamous because of its extensive peat bogs. The peat-coloured streams were fast flowing due to the heavy rain and could only be crossed by wading in ankle-deep water. There was often much pole-prodding to test the depth of the bog before we moved on and progress was quite slow. However as we drew closer to Black Hill we were relieved to find the path had been paved and we were able to move on quite quickly to Wessenden Head. From here the Way followed a series of small reservoirs before we left it to descend into Marsden.
On the way in to Marden we passed the largest of the 3 mills which manufactured the wool and the cotton which the town relied on for its livelihood. The last closed as recently as the late 90s but the soot-stained buildings were reminders of its past. The following day we continued our trek on the Pennine Way on the western escarpment of the South Pennine chain in at times drenching rain. We are beginning to hear mutterings of it being the wettest July on record!!!
At Blackstone edge it followed the ancient cobbles of an old Roman road. A highlight of the road was seeing a 600-year old waymark called the Aiggin Stone. Beyond this the path continued past several large reservoirs before making for the unmistakable landmark of Stoodley Pike which has stood since 1856 to celebrate the defeat of Napoleon. From here we descended into Hebden Bridge, a lively and attractive mill town tucked beneath steep wooded hillsides, again with a number of old mills and factories but now home to a vibrant artistic community.
Another overnight downpour forced us to reconsider a full day on the high moorland and instead we took a more direct route through to Stansbury in the heart of Bronte country where we had lunch at the aptly named Wuthering Heights Inn. The Bronte home was about 3 miles away at Haworth and is now a museum - so populat the signpost is also in Japanese. A definite highlight of the morning was however a visit to the very beautiful waterfalls at Lumb Hole. Former poet laureate Ted Hughes was so inspired by the falls that he wrote a poem at the site to commemorate the lives of 6 soldier friends. Another wet afternoon's trudge across wet and muddy field paths, often invisible and confusing, then saw us descend into Cowling to dry out overnight.
An early hail storm the following morning gave us a similar start to the day!! However we followed the Pennine Way to enter the Yorkshire Dales leaving the boggy moorland behind and the scenery became less harsh and more pastoral but no less wet and muddy. A number of pleasant villages were passed on route including Thornton in Craven and Gravage. For a while the path dropped to the Leeds & Liverpool Canal a reminder of the region's industrial heritage.
Beyond Gargrave the Way became a landscape of gentle walled pasture, easy field paths and riverside tracks. We followed the river Aire into the picturesque village of Malham for an overnight stay.
Their beautiful home gave us much needed rest and the chance to prepare for the next stage. We enjoyed watching a family of foxes playing in the garden each evening.
It gave us the opportunity to spend a bit of time exploring this great city, to admire its architecture and to visit a couple of museums. These included the Rylands library and its private collection of priceless books and manuscripts including pieces from the first printed Bible, and the very impressive Lowry Centre at Salford which featured a gallery of his work. We were also appreciative of the enjoyable luncheon hosted by Allan and Ingrid which raised funds for our charity, the Fistula Hospital in Ethiopia.
Rather reluctantly we farewelled Manchester and returned to Broadbottom where an east stroll took us to Crowden and the much anticipated start of the Pennine Way. A steady plod took us up past Ladlow Rocks on a steep, rocky and very wet path on to the moorland. Our destination was Black Hill which had been described as infamous because of its extensive peat bogs. The peat-coloured streams were fast flowing due to the heavy rain and could only be crossed by wading in ankle-deep water. There was often much pole-prodding to test the depth of the bog before we moved on and progress was quite slow. However as we drew closer to Black Hill we were relieved to find the path had been paved and we were able to move on quite quickly to Wessenden Head. From here the Way followed a series of small reservoirs before we left it to descend into Marsden.
On the way in to Marden we passed the largest of the 3 mills which manufactured the wool and the cotton which the town relied on for its livelihood. The last closed as recently as the late 90s but the soot-stained buildings were reminders of its past. The following day we continued our trek on the Pennine Way on the western escarpment of the South Pennine chain in at times drenching rain. We are beginning to hear mutterings of it being the wettest July on record!!!
At Blackstone edge it followed the ancient cobbles of an old Roman road. A highlight of the road was seeing a 600-year old waymark called the Aiggin Stone. Beyond this the path continued past several large reservoirs before making for the unmistakable landmark of Stoodley Pike which has stood since 1856 to celebrate the defeat of Napoleon. From here we descended into Hebden Bridge, a lively and attractive mill town tucked beneath steep wooded hillsides, again with a number of old mills and factories but now home to a vibrant artistic community.
Another overnight downpour forced us to reconsider a full day on the high moorland and instead we took a more direct route through to Stansbury in the heart of Bronte country where we had lunch at the aptly named Wuthering Heights Inn. The Bronte home was about 3 miles away at Haworth and is now a museum - so populat the signpost is also in Japanese. A definite highlight of the morning was however a visit to the very beautiful waterfalls at Lumb Hole. Former poet laureate Ted Hughes was so inspired by the falls that he wrote a poem at the site to commemorate the lives of 6 soldier friends. Another wet afternoon's trudge across wet and muddy field paths, often invisible and confusing, then saw us descend into Cowling to dry out overnight.
An early hail storm the following morning gave us a similar start to the day!! However we followed the Pennine Way to enter the Yorkshire Dales leaving the boggy moorland behind and the scenery became less harsh and more pastoral but no less wet and muddy. A number of pleasant villages were passed on route including Thornton in Craven and Gravage. For a while the path dropped to the Leeds & Liverpool Canal a reminder of the region's industrial heritage.
Beyond Gargrave the Way became a landscape of gentle walled pasture, easy field paths and riverside tracks. We followed the river Aire into the picturesque village of Malham for an overnight stay.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
End Stage 2 Manchester
Leaving the railway bridge at Knighton we left Wales for the last time and headed over the shoulder to the hamlet of Stowe. A steep climb led us to the forest on Hopton Titterhill, where a couple of stray route choices had us marginally off course but eventually a slippery downhill track and a climb over a menacing barbed wire fence led us on to the ruins of Hopton Castle and then to the Rock tea room which as a faithful recreation of a 1930s tearoom lived up to its reputation as one of the best cafes between Lands End and JOG. A wet afternoon ensued but after a number of field excursions we arrived somewhat bedraggled at Stokesay close to Craven Arms on the River Onny after having passed Stokesay Castle, a spectacular 13th century fortified manor house.
With trepidation we set off the following morning for our longest day so far. A steep climb brought us to the top of the Wenlock Edge, an ancient woodland full of woodland flowers, bird and animal life. Jo was surprised by a buzzard dropping a dead rabbit almost on her head. We initially followed the Jack Mytton Way but when drenching rain set in and the track became impassable we were forced to cross over the Edge to the Shropshire Way formerly a railway track which we followed for some distance before reverting to the Jack Mytton Way along an extensive limestone quarry and descending into Much Wenlock. An interesting feature of Much Wenlock was a 16th century Guidhall and the 13th century Wenlock Priory. A quick cup of tea under the disdainful eye of the hotel manager due to our wet and muddy appearance and we shuffled off to make a late dash along the Olympic Way out of town and on to Ironbridge about 8kms away.
Ironbridge despite its history proved to be an interesting and attractive town. The Iron Bridge was completed in 1779 and was the first bridge in the world to use cast iron. It crosses the Severn in a single arch with a span of over 30m and was built when the area pioneered the use of coke instead of coal for smelting iron at the onset of the Industrial Revolution. The town featured a number of museums including pottery, tile and the Coalbrookdale museum all in attractive woodland settings. From the outskirts of Ironbridge we followed a disused railway along the south bank of the River Severn stopping briefly at the Coalport Museum and the Inclined Plane a steep railway line up the valley side used to transport boats down to the river from a canal leading from the coalmines. From there we took a number of field paths to Kemberton for lunch, a quick cup of tea at the Bell Inn at Tong Norton and then it was a fairly long haul through to the edge of the canal at Wheaton Aston where we were collected and taken to Penkridge overnight to celebrate Jo's birthday.
The following day we resumed our journey at Wheaton Aston on the towpath of the Shropshire Union Canal. There were numerous houseboats either moored or travelling along this at times very narrow waterway and a number of fishermen trying their luck from positions on the banks.
One could not imagine consuming fish caught from the very muddy waters. With constant showers the path became very muddy and so we headed inland at Cowley to follow field paths and minor roads through to Stone a pleasant market town on the Trent and Mersey Canal.
A quick tour of Stone early the next morning and we resumed our trek along the Trent and Mersey Canal for a shortish walk into Stoke on Trent passing the Wedgwood factory on the way in. After settling into our accommodation at the Keele University we explored the city - very forgettable with much evidence of high unemployment and its associated problems. Determined to visit at least one of its potteries we compromised by dropping in to the Royal Doulton superstore outlet the following morning where there were some excellent shopping opportunities to be had. A few kilometres along the canal we were stopped by the Harecastle tunnels where the canal went underground for a distance of about 2 kilometres. Despite Frances' valaint efforts to hitch a ride on one of the leisure boats through the tunnel we were forced to take the long way round through Clough Hill to Kidsgrove where we switched to the Cheshire ring canal for a wet afternoon's walk into Congleton and a stay at very comfortable Sandhole Farm.
The following morning we returned to the Cheshire Ring Canal through the Bosley Locks where it became the Macclesfield Canal and then on to the outskirts of Macclesfield and Bollington.
At Bollington steady rain again set in and with the canal path becoming increasingly muddy we switched to the Middlewood Way, a dismantled railway line before stopping for the day at Wood Lanes and an overnight stay at Adlington.
Hoping for an early finish at Tintwhistle near Manchester the next day we made an early start and enjoyed an early lunch by the locks on the Peak Forest Canal at the delightful town of Marple. A silly navigational error At nearby Compstall led us into Etherow Country Park Compstall which despite its beauty left us all quite frustrated and due to the loss of time resulted in a decision to finish for the day at the railway station at Broadbottom a few kilometres west of Tintwhistle and about a half hour's drive from Didsbury in Manchester where we were to stay with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
End Stage 2
With trepidation we set off the following morning for our longest day so far. A steep climb brought us to the top of the Wenlock Edge, an ancient woodland full of woodland flowers, bird and animal life. Jo was surprised by a buzzard dropping a dead rabbit almost on her head. We initially followed the Jack Mytton Way but when drenching rain set in and the track became impassable we were forced to cross over the Edge to the Shropshire Way formerly a railway track which we followed for some distance before reverting to the Jack Mytton Way along an extensive limestone quarry and descending into Much Wenlock. An interesting feature of Much Wenlock was a 16th century Guidhall and the 13th century Wenlock Priory. A quick cup of tea under the disdainful eye of the hotel manager due to our wet and muddy appearance and we shuffled off to make a late dash along the Olympic Way out of town and on to Ironbridge about 8kms away.
Ironbridge despite its history proved to be an interesting and attractive town. The Iron Bridge was completed in 1779 and was the first bridge in the world to use cast iron. It crosses the Severn in a single arch with a span of over 30m and was built when the area pioneered the use of coke instead of coal for smelting iron at the onset of the Industrial Revolution. The town featured a number of museums including pottery, tile and the Coalbrookdale museum all in attractive woodland settings. From the outskirts of Ironbridge we followed a disused railway along the south bank of the River Severn stopping briefly at the Coalport Museum and the Inclined Plane a steep railway line up the valley side used to transport boats down to the river from a canal leading from the coalmines. From there we took a number of field paths to Kemberton for lunch, a quick cup of tea at the Bell Inn at Tong Norton and then it was a fairly long haul through to the edge of the canal at Wheaton Aston where we were collected and taken to Penkridge overnight to celebrate Jo's birthday.
The following day we resumed our journey at Wheaton Aston on the towpath of the Shropshire Union Canal. There were numerous houseboats either moored or travelling along this at times very narrow waterway and a number of fishermen trying their luck from positions on the banks.
One could not imagine consuming fish caught from the very muddy waters. With constant showers the path became very muddy and so we headed inland at Cowley to follow field paths and minor roads through to Stone a pleasant market town on the Trent and Mersey Canal.
A quick tour of Stone early the next morning and we resumed our trek along the Trent and Mersey Canal for a shortish walk into Stoke on Trent passing the Wedgwood factory on the way in. After settling into our accommodation at the Keele University we explored the city - very forgettable with much evidence of high unemployment and its associated problems. Determined to visit at least one of its potteries we compromised by dropping in to the Royal Doulton superstore outlet the following morning where there were some excellent shopping opportunities to be had. A few kilometres along the canal we were stopped by the Harecastle tunnels where the canal went underground for a distance of about 2 kilometres. Despite Frances' valaint efforts to hitch a ride on one of the leisure boats through the tunnel we were forced to take the long way round through Clough Hill to Kidsgrove where we switched to the Cheshire ring canal for a wet afternoon's walk into Congleton and a stay at very comfortable Sandhole Farm.
The following morning we returned to the Cheshire Ring Canal through the Bosley Locks where it became the Macclesfield Canal and then on to the outskirts of Macclesfield and Bollington.
At Bollington steady rain again set in and with the canal path becoming increasingly muddy we switched to the Middlewood Way, a dismantled railway line before stopping for the day at Wood Lanes and an overnight stay at Adlington.
Hoping for an early finish at Tintwhistle near Manchester the next day we made an early start and enjoyed an early lunch by the locks on the Peak Forest Canal at the delightful town of Marple. A silly navigational error At nearby Compstall led us into Etherow Country Park Compstall which despite its beauty left us all quite frustrated and due to the loss of time resulted in a decision to finish for the day at the railway station at Broadbottom a few kilometres west of Tintwhistle and about a half hour's drive from Didsbury in Manchester where we were to stay with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
End Stage 2
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Into Wales
A very exciting stopover in Bath where we were joined by Jo and LT who will be with us through to Manchester. Bath was magnificent and quite memorable. We were able to revisit the popular Roman Baths and the wonderful Georgian architecture, streetscapes of the Crescent and Circus and gardens but also attended a stunning lunch time organ recital in Bath Abbey and a theatre performance "Home" at the Theatre Royal - very similar to our own theatre. A sad farewell to Bath and we were in the car heading back to Severn View and the resumption of our journey at Chepstow on the other side of the Channel.
Crossing the old Bridge over the Wye River back into Gloucestershire we soon found ourselves on the much anticipated Offa's Dyke Path. The dyke, which is Britain's longest archaeological monument, was built by the 8th century Mercian king tokeep the unruly Welsh on their side of the border, takes the form of a bank on one side and ditch on the other and the England-Wales border roughly follows the line of it. The trail followed the wooded valley on the eastern side of the Wye passed high above the spectacular ruins of Tintern Abbey. At Brockweir we lunched at the HAPPA horse rehab centre where around 50 horses recover from neglect, illness or abandonment by their owners. From Brockweir we took the more scenic riverside option into Monmouth stopping for refreshments at Redbrook where we re-entered Wales. We encountered a number of fishermen trying their luck and one of them proudly displated an 11lb salmon which had been caught by his ghilly that morning, all fishing being subject to private fishing rights.
Monmouth was an ancient and attractive town featuring a beautiful 13th century stone-gated bridge which we crossed on the way out the following morning. The path the following day passed through an endless succession of farms up the river Trothy apart from the hilly and boggy King's Wood. We enjoyed lunch at Tal y Coed before passing the impressive ruins of the 12th century White Castle an old Norman fortress with most walls still standing and a moat full of water. A welcome cup of tea at the church at Llangattock Lingoed before heavy rain followed us into the Lancaster Arms at Pandy.
A steep climb out of Pandy the next morning lead us up on to the Black Mountains part of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The route followed the Hatterall ridge all day with a height of 703m attained at its highest point. The trail alternated between bracken and peat, quite boggy in patches but the views of the surrounding hills made it most worthwhile and from time to time we encountered small herds of wild Welsh ponies. At the northern tip we began a long steep descent of about 4 miles through farmland to Hay-on-Wye. Overnight at Baskerville Hall an interesting experience - a fine example of decaying splendour but with attractive gardens.
The following morning we spent some time browsing through the book shops in Hay on Wye for which it is famous, and of which there are many, both new and secondhand, and was able to track down a copy of John Hillaby's "Journey through Britain" for which I had been searching for some time. We all agreed we could have spent a whole day there!! However the trail beckoned and we made what proved to be a bad decision to follow the Wye Valley Way on to Kington.
There followed a laborious and very slow struggle over nettle covered styles, through crops and along very muddy paths till we resorted to tarmac and found our way down to Kington for the night where our hosts at the Royal Oak Inn salvalged the day with some fine hospitality.
So it was back to the Offa's Dyke Path the following morning for a relatively short but attractive wandering through rolling hills and some of the best-preserved examples of the Dyke. Heading north out of the town we reached the highest golf course in England (390m). We crossed the fairways to Rushock Hill and rejoined the Dyke path. Highlights of what was a thoroughly enjoyable day included historic Burfa Farm, a restored maedieval farm house and multitudes of beef and dairy cattle and wooolly lambs. Again a steep descent into Knighton for a 2-night stay.
Crossing the old Bridge over the Wye River back into Gloucestershire we soon found ourselves on the much anticipated Offa's Dyke Path. The dyke, which is Britain's longest archaeological monument, was built by the 8th century Mercian king tokeep the unruly Welsh on their side of the border, takes the form of a bank on one side and ditch on the other and the England-Wales border roughly follows the line of it. The trail followed the wooded valley on the eastern side of the Wye passed high above the spectacular ruins of Tintern Abbey. At Brockweir we lunched at the HAPPA horse rehab centre where around 50 horses recover from neglect, illness or abandonment by their owners. From Brockweir we took the more scenic riverside option into Monmouth stopping for refreshments at Redbrook where we re-entered Wales. We encountered a number of fishermen trying their luck and one of them proudly displated an 11lb salmon which had been caught by his ghilly that morning, all fishing being subject to private fishing rights.
Monmouth was an ancient and attractive town featuring a beautiful 13th century stone-gated bridge which we crossed on the way out the following morning. The path the following day passed through an endless succession of farms up the river Trothy apart from the hilly and boggy King's Wood. We enjoyed lunch at Tal y Coed before passing the impressive ruins of the 12th century White Castle an old Norman fortress with most walls still standing and a moat full of water. A welcome cup of tea at the church at Llangattock Lingoed before heavy rain followed us into the Lancaster Arms at Pandy.
A steep climb out of Pandy the next morning lead us up on to the Black Mountains part of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The route followed the Hatterall ridge all day with a height of 703m attained at its highest point. The trail alternated between bracken and peat, quite boggy in patches but the views of the surrounding hills made it most worthwhile and from time to time we encountered small herds of wild Welsh ponies. At the northern tip we began a long steep descent of about 4 miles through farmland to Hay-on-Wye. Overnight at Baskerville Hall an interesting experience - a fine example of decaying splendour but with attractive gardens.
The following morning we spent some time browsing through the book shops in Hay on Wye for which it is famous, and of which there are many, both new and secondhand, and was able to track down a copy of John Hillaby's "Journey through Britain" for which I had been searching for some time. We all agreed we could have spent a whole day there!! However the trail beckoned and we made what proved to be a bad decision to follow the Wye Valley Way on to Kington.
There followed a laborious and very slow struggle over nettle covered styles, through crops and along very muddy paths till we resorted to tarmac and found our way down to Kington for the night where our hosts at the Royal Oak Inn salvalged the day with some fine hospitality.
So it was back to the Offa's Dyke Path the following morning for a relatively short but attractive wandering through rolling hills and some of the best-preserved examples of the Dyke. Heading north out of the town we reached the highest golf course in England (390m). We crossed the fairways to Rushock Hill and rejoined the Dyke path. Highlights of what was a thoroughly enjoyable day included historic Burfa Farm, a restored maedieval farm house and multitudes of beef and dairy cattle and wooolly lambs. Again a steep descent into Knighton for a 2-night stay.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Bath -End of Stage 1
From Bicknoller a delightful steep climb on a good track led us to Bicknoller Combe and the main north-south ridge of the Quantocks. Spotted a large herd of red deer grazing on the side of the hill on our ascent - well camouflaged by the fairly thick bracken ferns. Closer to the high point on the moorland were forced to retrace steps (David excepted) to avoid herd of wild horses with a particularly frisky stallion. Beautiful beech woodland paths led us down via Lydeard Hill and onto some fairly uninspiring road walking to Goathurst and the Hen House at Sherwood where we stayed overnight. On route to Goathurst we passed the Temple of Harmony an incongruous structure built in 1767 in grounds of Halswell Park based on 1st century temple of Fortuna Villis in Rome. A short visit to Bridgwater that evening for dinner. Bridgwater a shabby little town with evidence of much unemployment on the very slimy Parrett River estuary.
There followed a bit of a scramble the following morning to negotiate field paths back into Bridgwater and an unpleasant crossing of the M5 motorway leading to the start of the Somereset Levels, land that was originally saltmarsh and frequently flooded, The Levels are now a crisscross pattern of straight ditches and wider rivers with pumping stations at intervals.
As a result the field paths were tricky and it was often difficult to locate the footbridges necessary to cross the ditches filled with stagnant water which were the field boundaries.
A footbridge over the King's Sedgmoor Drain led into the village of Bawdrip where we were able to pick up a cycle path through to Cossington a very attractive and affluent village for lunch .
After leaving Cossington it was back on the Levels again, across more fields for another interesting confrontation with a large herd of steers, on to Blackford and a short walk to Poplar Farm at West Stoughton where we stayed overnight.
From Poplar Farm a bridleway and almost invisible footpaths led us through Middle Staughton along the edge of a steep escarpment across to Axbridge where we picked up a footpath to take us through to Sandford. The footpath, known as the Cheddar Valley Railway Walk followed the path of a disused railway line, the Strawberry Line which used to run from Yatton via Cheddar to Wells. We broke our journey to travel to Cheddar for an overnight stay. Caught up with Lesley H and her sister Lynne before a quick visit to the vertical limestone cliffs of Cheddar Gorge which cuts deep into the edge of the Mendips which stretch inland from the Bristol Channel.
Cheddar proved somewhat of a disappointment - too many tourists and over-commercialised but very populat with rock climbers. A very helpful lady from Outdoor Shop , formerly from Perth who was able to help with the selection of new walking boots.
Resuming our journey at Sandford the following day we again picked up the Strawberry Line footpath as far as Yatton before taking to the fields again until we reached the outskirts of Bristol and some pleasant woodland walking. Towards the end of the walk we descended out of the woods to have spectacular views of the Bristol Channel and the outskirts of Bristol. There followed a harrowing crossing of the M5 motorway and our accommodation in the services area of Easton in Gordano.
The following morning a quick visit was made to the Hansel and Gretel cottages of Blaise Hamlet in Bristol. These were designed by John Nash in 1809 and housed pensioners from the Blaise Estate but are now owned by the National Trust. We left the city via the Blaise Castle woodland after a visit to the museum and its fascinating collection of household memorabilia dating back 300 years and made our way out via the Severn Way passing large sewage works and a large industrial estate. The Severn Way path proved to be quite overgrown in places and as it ran alongside the railway line with a newly constructed fence was difficult to find. We were forced to resort to a busy road but eventually were able to resume a path along the Channel edge right through to Severn View Bridge and the M48 Services area where we were collected and taken into Bath for a 3-night stopover.
End of Stage 1
There followed a bit of a scramble the following morning to negotiate field paths back into Bridgwater and an unpleasant crossing of the M5 motorway leading to the start of the Somereset Levels, land that was originally saltmarsh and frequently flooded, The Levels are now a crisscross pattern of straight ditches and wider rivers with pumping stations at intervals.
As a result the field paths were tricky and it was often difficult to locate the footbridges necessary to cross the ditches filled with stagnant water which were the field boundaries.
A footbridge over the King's Sedgmoor Drain led into the village of Bawdrip where we were able to pick up a cycle path through to Cossington a very attractive and affluent village for lunch .
After leaving Cossington it was back on the Levels again, across more fields for another interesting confrontation with a large herd of steers, on to Blackford and a short walk to Poplar Farm at West Stoughton where we stayed overnight.
From Poplar Farm a bridleway and almost invisible footpaths led us through Middle Staughton along the edge of a steep escarpment across to Axbridge where we picked up a footpath to take us through to Sandford. The footpath, known as the Cheddar Valley Railway Walk followed the path of a disused railway line, the Strawberry Line which used to run from Yatton via Cheddar to Wells. We broke our journey to travel to Cheddar for an overnight stay. Caught up with Lesley H and her sister Lynne before a quick visit to the vertical limestone cliffs of Cheddar Gorge which cuts deep into the edge of the Mendips which stretch inland from the Bristol Channel.
Cheddar proved somewhat of a disappointment - too many tourists and over-commercialised but very populat with rock climbers. A very helpful lady from Outdoor Shop , formerly from Perth who was able to help with the selection of new walking boots.
Resuming our journey at Sandford the following day we again picked up the Strawberry Line footpath as far as Yatton before taking to the fields again until we reached the outskirts of Bristol and some pleasant woodland walking. Towards the end of the walk we descended out of the woods to have spectacular views of the Bristol Channel and the outskirts of Bristol. There followed a harrowing crossing of the M5 motorway and our accommodation in the services area of Easton in Gordano.
The following morning a quick visit was made to the Hansel and Gretel cottages of Blaise Hamlet in Bristol. These were designed by John Nash in 1809 and housed pensioners from the Blaise Estate but are now owned by the National Trust. We left the city via the Blaise Castle woodland after a visit to the museum and its fascinating collection of household memorabilia dating back 300 years and made our way out via the Severn Way passing large sewage works and a large industrial estate. The Severn Way path proved to be quite overgrown in places and as it ran alongside the railway line with a newly constructed fence was difficult to find. We were forced to resort to a busy road but eventually were able to resume a path along the Channel edge right through to Severn View Bridge and the M48 Services area where we were collected and taken into Bath for a 3-night stopover.
End of Stage 1
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Walking on Exmoor
Bidding farewell to the Old Vicarage we spent some time on the outskirts of Barnstaple locating a bridleway that would lead us to Smoky House Lane and the beginning of our track to Challacombe. The track proved to quite muddy as it was popular with trail bike riders and hence very slow and at times difficult to follow. Nevertheless it proved to be quite different from that we had become. accustomed to as it was mostly through soft woodland of oaks and chestnuts.
Later that morning we climbed steeply out of the Yeo valley to enjoy lunch at Bratton Flemming at the White Hart. After crossing the Bray valley we climbed uphill through Challacome to our overnight destination at Twitchen Farm - a property over 400 years old.
The following morning we had our first taste of Exmoor and it proved a very rewarding experience. The cultivation gradually gave way to moorland with remnants of beech tree windbreaks and characteristic mounded field boundaries. Other walkers were rare apart from occasional groups of schoolchildren on navigation exercises as part of a D of E award but who all asked us to loacte them on a map and point them in the right direction - the blind leading the blind. The weather was perfect, the larks were in full cry and we came across wild moorland cattle, Exmoor ponies and even spotted a herd of red deer - thanks to a friendly truck driver.
The Tarka Trail (our path) climbed to crest of the Exmoor Ridge at Woodbarrow Gate to the source of the River Exe and crossed the Two Moors Way into Devon. After a lunch at Simonsbath we headed up past Warren Farm to rejoin the Trail via the very steep Postman's Path. This was followed by a stroll across Elsworthy Moor to be collected by Richard at Larkbarrow Corner. Overnight at Exford.
As the weather was still clear we resumed our route the following day by crossing the high moors over Almsworthy Common and Exford Common to visit Dunkery Beacon the highest point on Exmoor which gave great views but a bit misty. The track then led us off the moor through rough pasture anda pleasant path through Blagdon wood to Wheddon Cross for lunch.
Our path out of the town was marked by a confrontation with a rather aggressive tractor driver with a full load of hay who completely blocked our path due to the very high and nettle-ridden hedges both sides of the road. Frances and David butied themselves in the hedge while I took off down the road back into the town with the tractor in hot pursuit. The narrow roads are often quite hazardous!
The remainder of the day's walk took us through Luxborough and on to Lype Hill where we stopped and returned to Exford for the night. The country here was clearly the venue for hunting and shooting (refined!!) as we heard the sound of gunshots and we sighted a number of hunting dogs. We spoke with the owner of Chargon House and were informed that the property was mentioned in the Doomsday Book and included at one time 18 villages in the area. We were also informed that the holding is now a 22 acre farm and a 600 acre shoot!!
Resuming the following day the path took us on a very tranquil path through Langridge Wood, a descent back to the Washford River and then to the quiet village of Roadwater. From Roadwater it was a mixture of field paths (quite overgrown and difficult to follow thanks to uncooperative farmers) and a descent via parkland to Nettlecombe Court in a beautiful location with its own church - formerly the seat of the Raleighs and now a field centre. The day was hot at about 30 degrees and very humid, our brows were dripping and the horse flies in abundance!!
A slow journey on to Monsilver for a late lunch at the Notley Arms followed by a circuitous but more easily travelled route to Bicknoller at the foot of the Quantocks. Again Bicknoller a pretty little village with a 15th century church. Before reaching Bicknoller we crossed the rail track for the newly preserved steam railway running between Minehead and Taunton.
Today is a much-needed rest day. Spent the day catching up on emails and visiting nearby Dunster Castle with its magnificent buildings and gardens, the quaint village of Dunster and the coastal town of Minehead.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Barnstaple
Very relieved to be leaving Westward Ho we headed for Bideford and were able to see a very different side to the town from the previous day. We visited the museuma and viewed a wonderful exhibition of watercolours by a local artist Albert Goodwin before passing a market on the river promenade featuring delicious looking local produce and crossing the old bridge to pick up the path to Instow.
Apart from a climb out of Westward Ho the remainder of the walk was flat the major part of it along a converted railway track which became a bit monotonous by the end of the day. The route. was also a very popular cycling path and was a bit hazardous at times. We passed Fremington Quay just beyond Instow, the largest port between Bristol and Land's End towards the end of the last century. There was typically a number of boats marooned by the low tide lying in the sand.
The highlight of the afternoon was watching a number of students doing an exercise as part of an officer training program with the British army. After a long run they were required to crawl and run through the knee deep mud and slime on the river bank before returning to their camp - an amazing spectacle which kept us entertained for some time.
Staying at The Old Vicarage in Barnstaple - an attractive B&B dating back to the 1830s.
Apart from a climb out of Westward Ho the remainder of the walk was flat the major part of it along a converted railway track which became a bit monotonous by the end of the day. The route. was also a very popular cycling path and was a bit hazardous at times. We passed Fremington Quay just beyond Instow, the largest port between Bristol and Land's End towards the end of the last century. There was typically a number of boats marooned by the low tide lying in the sand.
The highlight of the afternoon was watching a number of students doing an exercise as part of an officer training program with the British army. After a long run they were required to crawl and run through the knee deep mud and slime on the river bank before returning to their camp - an amazing spectacle which kept us entertained for some time.
Staying at The Old Vicarage in Barnstaple - an attractive B&B dating back to the 1830s.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Reporting from Westward Ho
Finally have been able to access the website with a full battery so can bring you all up to date with our meanderings since I last reported from St Ives. In summary I can report that the South West Coast Path has been absolutely stunning and has justified our decision to take the more challenging route to Bath.
The path has been quite narrow at time, the cliffs precipitous and there have been a number of very steep ascents and descents but the coastline, wildflowers, birdlife and fishing villages have provided an unforgettable experience.
From St Ives we crossed the Hayle Estuary in fairly bleak rainy conditions to walk along the beach and rejoin the path at Red River where we lunched. We sympathised with the surprising number of brave groups on the beach who were taking surfing and kite-surfing lessons in fairly rough seas and water temperatures of about 12 degrees.
The weather cleared after lunch and the walk to Portreath although in blustery southwesterly winds(thankfully behind us and the prevailing winds on this coast) was fairly easy going.
Portreath was the first of a number of small coastal fishing villages with stone houses dependent on the sea for its livelihood, all with pocket-sized harbours that empty at low tide (tide variations about 7m) and with very narrow entrances which aim to protect and provide safety to their boats from the heavy seas experienced along this rugged coast.
Leaving Portreath the following morning we passed a large airforce training base. We were warned not to stray from the path in case we stepped on unexploded objects.We soon arrived in Porthtowan and continued the coastal path to St Agnes and then Perranporth our overnight destination.
Along the route there was much evidence of cliff-side tin mining activity and mine shafts capped with conical mesh to indicate their whereabouts. The rock pinnacles around the cove were quite dramatic with green copper stains a by-product of the tin mining.
Perranporth, another fishing village and holiday destination of little interest with very poor accommodation.
After walking along the firm sands of Perran Beach the following morning and ascending the cliffs at Ligger Point we met a number of chefs from a nearby army camp who were practising their abseiling skills on the cliifs. We stopped briefly for an 'almost coffee' at Holeywell but were driven out by the owner who announced he didn't like 'people with poles' -our walking sticks!
The highlight of the rest of the journey to Newquay was the crossing of the Ganel by ferry a distance of about 50 metres. The ferry was a small wooden boat summoned from across the river and driven by a man accompanied by his dog.
Approaching Newquay we passed Fistral Beach the most popular and best known surfing beach in the British Isles. Newquay is a large commercial and tourism centre which heaves with people during the season. Although we were stopping there overnight we realised the challenge of the planned walk the following day and decided to reduce the next day's journey by pushing on, in heavy rain, to Mawgan Porth that afternoon. The path wound its way through Newquay and then on to the high and dangerous cliffs above Whipsiderry Beach to Watergate, an ugly property development, before taking to cliff-side again.
The following day we again walked cliff-top via the spectacular Carnewas Beach to Porthcothan, another pretty fishing village, for a freshly caught crab sandwich and Cornish tea lunch scones , clotted cream and jam. We then tracked inland taking a field path to Padstow descending into the town past the beautiful Prideau Place castle and gardens. Padstow, popularised by Rick Stein and known locally as Padstein, had a beautiful harbour and a quaint and up-market town centre. Rick Stein's famous seafood restaurant was located only 3 doors away from our B & B hosted by a delightful lady, Linda Hawkins. We enjoyed an exceptionally good Italian meal overlooking the harbour. The town however was over-populated by wily seagulls, one of whom snatched an after-dinner ice-cream from out of David's hand much to his horror and the amusement of passers-by he had been warned thjis was a regular occurrence around the harbour!
Next morning we were relieved to discover the tide was sufficiently high for another ferry crossing across the Camel River to Rock (approximately 500 metres). The coastal path then took us to Polzeath, round the coast to Port Quin and on to Port Isaac where we were transported to Lane End Farm at Pendoggett, our B&B for the night which provided very comfortable accommodation.
We really enjoyed Port Isaac a very picturesque fishing village made famous by the Doc Martin's TV series, new episodes of which were currently being filmed. We were able to see Doc Martin's house and recognise various scenes from the series later that evening when coincidentally there was an episode on television. The locals told us that many of the cast came from members of the local community. In the evening we listened top a group of local fishermen who had formed a choir to sing seafaring folk songs.
The next section of the journey was described as 'severe' in our guide with several miles of very tough walking and the path not so well defined and it lived up to its reputation with many very steep descents and ascents. At Trebarthwick Strand we decided on an inland route via field paths to Boscastle. The afternoon ramble was marked by an interesting confrontation with a herd of about 45 bullocks who despite David's gallant attempts refused to move aside and let us through and decided to chase us back over a 'triple' stile. Frances stumbled back over the stile while David was lucky to escape without a horn in his backside!!
Boscastle was again a very attractive village now fully recovered from disastrous floods in 2004 which reached the second storey of many buildings close to the harbour inmcluding our B and B. The village featured among other things an extremely popular witchcraft museum, beautiful stone buildings and a very narrow entrance to the harbour. We had allowed for a rest day in Boscastle but decided to spend the afternoon walking to Crackington Haven to reduce the walk for the following day.
It was a good decision as the coastal path to Crackington Haven featured a huge climb to High Cliff, the highest on the whole South West Coast Path.
Crackington Haven to Bude the following day was again a strenuous walk but with a wide variety of rock formations and an ancient oak woodland at Dizzard Point providing interest. The beach at widemouth was popular with surfers but the sand had changed dramatically from those further west and had become a dirty grey and covered in many parts by rocks worn smooth by the pounding surf. We finally descended via the road into Bude and a walk to our accommodation via the historic and very picturesque Bude Canal.
As the next section of the Coast Path to Bude was also described as 'severe' we left the path at Maer Down to travel via field paths to cease our walking for the day at Philham. The field paths proved to be quite difficult to follow and a challenge to negotiate as they were often overgrown with nettles,gorse, and brambles and quite muddy underfoot. Horse flies were in abundance and they were particularly attracted to Frances who sustained some painful bites. The night was spent at the superb home of Gill and John George at Gawlish Farm where we enjoyed a wonderful home-cooked meal. David and Richard were treated to a post-dinner tour of the district in John's 4WD where he regaled them with local stories and culminated in a beer at Hartland Quay. The Quay and surronding coast has notoriety for the number of ships that have been wrecked by the menacing coastline over the years.
We began our walking the following day at Hartland Quay with its spectacular rock formations and learning more about the history of ship wrecks. It featured a huge sea wall built to contain the wild seas which threaten to undermine the foundations of the Hartland Quay Inn. It was then on to Stoke and Hartland Abbey before a very pleasant walk through Brownsham Wood and on to Clovelly.
Clovelly remains a gorgeous little village - it was interesting to learn that it remains privately owned and has been in the one family since the early 1900s - currently owned by John Rous, a descendant of the original owner Christine Hamlyn, whose residence Clovelly Court with beautiful gardens overlooks the village.
Visted the house and museum of Charles Kingsley before joining Dunalley residents Tim and Tammy Holmes and their granddaughter Matilda for a meal harbourside at the Red Lion Inn.
The following day began with a pleasant walk through the woods along the Hobby Drive - a avenue shaded by a range of deciduous tress. The remainder of the walk to Westward Ho was most enjoyable but with some steep sections and at times the path was quite overgrown. We passed people employed by the National Trust who were responsible for keeping cleared a 6-mile section of the track - quite a task given the warm weather and seasonal rainfall which had seen a healthy growth of brambles, nettles and gorse. From Peppercombe there was a fine stretch of coast walking to Westward Ho a depressing and very shabby seaside town located on the Torridge River estuary.
Again a very level beach and big tidal variations mean almost a bus trip to reach the water at low tide yet at high tide the water laps the rocks of the sea wall. A very unattractive smooth rocky shoreline complements the equally unattractive buildings which front it including scores of beach cabins. Richard has however enjoyed a round of golf on the Royal North Devon links course nearby, the oldest golf course in England while David and I explored nearby Bideford, also a very forgettable town.
The path has been quite narrow at time, the cliffs precipitous and there have been a number of very steep ascents and descents but the coastline, wildflowers, birdlife and fishing villages have provided an unforgettable experience.
From St Ives we crossed the Hayle Estuary in fairly bleak rainy conditions to walk along the beach and rejoin the path at Red River where we lunched. We sympathised with the surprising number of brave groups on the beach who were taking surfing and kite-surfing lessons in fairly rough seas and water temperatures of about 12 degrees.
The weather cleared after lunch and the walk to Portreath although in blustery southwesterly winds(thankfully behind us and the prevailing winds on this coast) was fairly easy going.
Portreath was the first of a number of small coastal fishing villages with stone houses dependent on the sea for its livelihood, all with pocket-sized harbours that empty at low tide (tide variations about 7m) and with very narrow entrances which aim to protect and provide safety to their boats from the heavy seas experienced along this rugged coast.
Leaving Portreath the following morning we passed a large airforce training base. We were warned not to stray from the path in case we stepped on unexploded objects.We soon arrived in Porthtowan and continued the coastal path to St Agnes and then Perranporth our overnight destination.
Along the route there was much evidence of cliff-side tin mining activity and mine shafts capped with conical mesh to indicate their whereabouts. The rock pinnacles around the cove were quite dramatic with green copper stains a by-product of the tin mining.
Perranporth, another fishing village and holiday destination of little interest with very poor accommodation.
After walking along the firm sands of Perran Beach the following morning and ascending the cliffs at Ligger Point we met a number of chefs from a nearby army camp who were practising their abseiling skills on the cliifs. We stopped briefly for an 'almost coffee' at Holeywell but were driven out by the owner who announced he didn't like 'people with poles' -our walking sticks!
The highlight of the rest of the journey to Newquay was the crossing of the Ganel by ferry a distance of about 50 metres. The ferry was a small wooden boat summoned from across the river and driven by a man accompanied by his dog.
Approaching Newquay we passed Fistral Beach the most popular and best known surfing beach in the British Isles. Newquay is a large commercial and tourism centre which heaves with people during the season. Although we were stopping there overnight we realised the challenge of the planned walk the following day and decided to reduce the next day's journey by pushing on, in heavy rain, to Mawgan Porth that afternoon. The path wound its way through Newquay and then on to the high and dangerous cliffs above Whipsiderry Beach to Watergate, an ugly property development, before taking to cliff-side again.
The following day we again walked cliff-top via the spectacular Carnewas Beach to Porthcothan, another pretty fishing village, for a freshly caught crab sandwich and Cornish tea lunch scones , clotted cream and jam. We then tracked inland taking a field path to Padstow descending into the town past the beautiful Prideau Place castle and gardens. Padstow, popularised by Rick Stein and known locally as Padstein, had a beautiful harbour and a quaint and up-market town centre. Rick Stein's famous seafood restaurant was located only 3 doors away from our B & B hosted by a delightful lady, Linda Hawkins. We enjoyed an exceptionally good Italian meal overlooking the harbour. The town however was over-populated by wily seagulls, one of whom snatched an after-dinner ice-cream from out of David's hand much to his horror and the amusement of passers-by he had been warned thjis was a regular occurrence around the harbour!
Next morning we were relieved to discover the tide was sufficiently high for another ferry crossing across the Camel River to Rock (approximately 500 metres). The coastal path then took us to Polzeath, round the coast to Port Quin and on to Port Isaac where we were transported to Lane End Farm at Pendoggett, our B&B for the night which provided very comfortable accommodation.
We really enjoyed Port Isaac a very picturesque fishing village made famous by the Doc Martin's TV series, new episodes of which were currently being filmed. We were able to see Doc Martin's house and recognise various scenes from the series later that evening when coincidentally there was an episode on television. The locals told us that many of the cast came from members of the local community. In the evening we listened top a group of local fishermen who had formed a choir to sing seafaring folk songs.
The next section of the journey was described as 'severe' in our guide with several miles of very tough walking and the path not so well defined and it lived up to its reputation with many very steep descents and ascents. At Trebarthwick Strand we decided on an inland route via field paths to Boscastle. The afternoon ramble was marked by an interesting confrontation with a herd of about 45 bullocks who despite David's gallant attempts refused to move aside and let us through and decided to chase us back over a 'triple' stile. Frances stumbled back over the stile while David was lucky to escape without a horn in his backside!!
Boscastle was again a very attractive village now fully recovered from disastrous floods in 2004 which reached the second storey of many buildings close to the harbour inmcluding our B and B. The village featured among other things an extremely popular witchcraft museum, beautiful stone buildings and a very narrow entrance to the harbour. We had allowed for a rest day in Boscastle but decided to spend the afternoon walking to Crackington Haven to reduce the walk for the following day.
It was a good decision as the coastal path to Crackington Haven featured a huge climb to High Cliff, the highest on the whole South West Coast Path.
Crackington Haven to Bude the following day was again a strenuous walk but with a wide variety of rock formations and an ancient oak woodland at Dizzard Point providing interest. The beach at widemouth was popular with surfers but the sand had changed dramatically from those further west and had become a dirty grey and covered in many parts by rocks worn smooth by the pounding surf. We finally descended via the road into Bude and a walk to our accommodation via the historic and very picturesque Bude Canal.
As the next section of the Coast Path to Bude was also described as 'severe' we left the path at Maer Down to travel via field paths to cease our walking for the day at Philham. The field paths proved to be quite difficult to follow and a challenge to negotiate as they were often overgrown with nettles,gorse, and brambles and quite muddy underfoot. Horse flies were in abundance and they were particularly attracted to Frances who sustained some painful bites. The night was spent at the superb home of Gill and John George at Gawlish Farm where we enjoyed a wonderful home-cooked meal. David and Richard were treated to a post-dinner tour of the district in John's 4WD where he regaled them with local stories and culminated in a beer at Hartland Quay. The Quay and surronding coast has notoriety for the number of ships that have been wrecked by the menacing coastline over the years.
We began our walking the following day at Hartland Quay with its spectacular rock formations and learning more about the history of ship wrecks. It featured a huge sea wall built to contain the wild seas which threaten to undermine the foundations of the Hartland Quay Inn. It was then on to Stoke and Hartland Abbey before a very pleasant walk through Brownsham Wood and on to Clovelly.
Clovelly remains a gorgeous little village - it was interesting to learn that it remains privately owned and has been in the one family since the early 1900s - currently owned by John Rous, a descendant of the original owner Christine Hamlyn, whose residence Clovelly Court with beautiful gardens overlooks the village.
Visted the house and museum of Charles Kingsley before joining Dunalley residents Tim and Tammy Holmes and their granddaughter Matilda for a meal harbourside at the Red Lion Inn.
The following day began with a pleasant walk through the woods along the Hobby Drive - a avenue shaded by a range of deciduous tress. The remainder of the walk to Westward Ho was most enjoyable but with some steep sections and at times the path was quite overgrown. We passed people employed by the National Trust who were responsible for keeping cleared a 6-mile section of the track - quite a task given the warm weather and seasonal rainfall which had seen a healthy growth of brambles, nettles and gorse. From Peppercombe there was a fine stretch of coast walking to Westward Ho a depressing and very shabby seaside town located on the Torridge River estuary.
Again a very level beach and big tidal variations mean almost a bus trip to reach the water at low tide yet at high tide the water laps the rocks of the sea wall. A very unattractive smooth rocky shoreline complements the equally unattractive buildings which front it including scores of beach cabins. Richard has however enjoyed a round of golf on the Royal North Devon links course nearby, the oldest golf course in England while David and I explored nearby Bideford, also a very forgettable town.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
We're on the way
It's Day 3 and we are having a rest day in St Ives.
We left Lands End about 11am on the 12th. Postponed our departure an hour waiting for heavy fog and fine rain to clear. Since then the weather has been kind to us, sunny and about 17degrees.
The south west coast path is quite spectacular sheer rocky cliifs, deep blue seas, white sandy beaches and an abundance of wild flowers. The path however is often very narrow, quite overgrown, boggy in places and often quite rocky underfoot - very slow going.
Afer leaving Land's End we followed the cliff top to picturesque Sennen Cove a small fishing village with a interesting craft and art shop in the old wheelhouse. On to sands of Whitesand Bay followed by a rockhop(a mistake!) to the cliff path again to Cape Cornwall. Wild flowers everywhere - campions, thrift, buttercups, bluebells and foxgloves.
Cape Cornwall is a small peninsula with a chimney on the top and the beginning of remnants of old tin mines - ruined buildings,tracks and chimney stacks some bearing the marks of arsenic production. Many stone farm buildings often painted white in stark contrast with the lush green fields. Due to navigational errors, poor advice from a local who offered David and Frances a glass of scrumpy while I was retracing my steps as a result of an incorrect path choice we arrived at Botallack well off course. Collected by Richard and taken to Pendeen for overnight stay at the North Inn.
The following morning we picked up the path again at Geevor Tin Mine about 9.15am. The Geevor mine was the last operational mine in Cornwall, closing in 1990 with an interesting history dating back to Roman occupation in early 400s. We then resumed the coastal path for Zennor.The highlight of the moring was beautiful Portmeor Cove and the spotting of a pod of basking sharks quite close to shore by eagle-eye Frances. It appears that thes attract quite a number of visitors to Cornwall each year. A few walkers on the track most of whom were complaining about its condition which at this stage was beginning to make us realise that we were not going to reach St Ives before dark. We were however saved by a path diversion due to its unsafe condition as a result of the recent heavy rain and after a delightful lunch at the equally delightful village of Zennor we followed the field path for the rest of the day to St Ives and a night at the Grey Mullet - not far from the harbour. Today we will visit the Tate Gallery and Barabara Hepworth's garden as well as browsing the shops.
We left Lands End about 11am on the 12th. Postponed our departure an hour waiting for heavy fog and fine rain to clear. Since then the weather has been kind to us, sunny and about 17degrees.
The south west coast path is quite spectacular sheer rocky cliifs, deep blue seas, white sandy beaches and an abundance of wild flowers. The path however is often very narrow, quite overgrown, boggy in places and often quite rocky underfoot - very slow going.
Afer leaving Land's End we followed the cliff top to picturesque Sennen Cove a small fishing village with a interesting craft and art shop in the old wheelhouse. On to sands of Whitesand Bay followed by a rockhop(a mistake!) to the cliff path again to Cape Cornwall. Wild flowers everywhere - campions, thrift, buttercups, bluebells and foxgloves.
Cape Cornwall is a small peninsula with a chimney on the top and the beginning of remnants of old tin mines - ruined buildings,tracks and chimney stacks some bearing the marks of arsenic production. Many stone farm buildings often painted white in stark contrast with the lush green fields. Due to navigational errors, poor advice from a local who offered David and Frances a glass of scrumpy while I was retracing my steps as a result of an incorrect path choice we arrived at Botallack well off course. Collected by Richard and taken to Pendeen for overnight stay at the North Inn.
The following morning we picked up the path again at Geevor Tin Mine about 9.15am. The Geevor mine was the last operational mine in Cornwall, closing in 1990 with an interesting history dating back to Roman occupation in early 400s. We then resumed the coastal path for Zennor.The highlight of the moring was beautiful Portmeor Cove and the spotting of a pod of basking sharks quite close to shore by eagle-eye Frances. It appears that thes attract quite a number of visitors to Cornwall each year. A few walkers on the track most of whom were complaining about its condition which at this stage was beginning to make us realise that we were not going to reach St Ives before dark. We were however saved by a path diversion due to its unsafe condition as a result of the recent heavy rain and after a delightful lunch at the equally delightful village of Zennor we followed the field path for the rest of the day to St Ives and a night at the Grey Mullet - not far from the harbour. Today we will visit the Tate Gallery and Barabara Hepworth's garden as well as browsing the shops.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
The excitement grows
We are now in the final throes of preparing for our departure.
Yvonne and David leave on 7 June, Richard and Frances the following day.
After a couple of days in London where we will be stocking up with all our maps David and I will take the train to Penzance to meet up with Richard and Frances at Mousehole before starting the walk on 12 June.
Sponsorship for the Walk has been coming in.each day. We are still hoping for lots more as we have a mission to raise as much as we can for the Fistula Hospital and it will give us the incentive to KEEP WALKING.
We are all most excited to be able to stop talking and start walking..
Yvonne and David leave on 7 June, Richard and Frances the following day.
After a couple of days in London where we will be stocking up with all our maps David and I will take the train to Penzance to meet up with Richard and Frances at Mousehole before starting the walk on 12 June.
Sponsorship for the Walk has been coming in.each day. We are still hoping for lots more as we have a mission to raise as much as we can for the Fistula Hospital and it will give us the incentive to KEEP WALKING.
We are all most excited to be able to stop talking and start walking..
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