We were delighted that Chris decided to join us for our journey to Melrose the following day leaving Brian to investigate the local salmon fishing spots. From Jedburgh we found our way back to Dere Street and wound our way along the River Teviot . Crossing a new suspension bridge we visited the beautiful gardens of Monteviot House and passed the Waterloo Monument before rejoining the River Tweed for lunch at St Boswells. On our way out we passed Dryburgh Abbey from the 12th century which holds the grave of Sir Walter Scott. The rest of the day was spent skirting the 3 Eildon Hills to follow the St Cuthbert’s Way into the second of the principal Scottish border towns of Melrose. Melrose Abbey ruins which we visited later that evening were most atmospheric, again founded in the 12th century but destroyed by English raids in the 14th century.
Another very scenic stretch by the River Tweed the next morning led us past numerous very large estates with very large gardens and on to Yair Bridge. A simple uneventful afternoon’s stroll followed into Innerleithen – very unimpressive. However Traquair House was a couple of miles down the road where we began our walk the next day. Traquair House is believed to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland – a royal hunting lodge over 1000 years old – frequented by Mary Queen of Scots. From Traquair we skirted the hills to Peebles – again a very lively border town dating back to 1367 – very Scottish – even spotted a few kilts. With rain falling we left the town by Neidpath Castle to begin a tortupous afternoon’s walk which included a steep and rough climb to the summit of White Meldon followed by a worse descent over boggy hillside into a forestry plantation and a wet and muddy path into Romannobridge before some welcome road walking into West Linton. Overnight at Carlops a nearby village to dry out.
But the next day the rain continued as we tackled the Pentland Hills to give us access to Edinburgh. We were reminded that the “glorious 12th” the start of the grouse shooting season had finally arrived with sound of gunshots at periodic intervals throughout the day. We climbed out of West Linton to Baddingsgill Reservoir before taking to the Thieves Road on Cauldstone Slap. The summit was a godforsaken place – wild and bleak and as usual not a soul to be seen apart from a couple of woolly highland cattle. It was not hard to imagine the cattle rustlers hiding amongst the heather ready to surprise the drovers on their journey to the market towns. The steady rains had converted the tracks to streams and we had to wade the fords. At the top of Corston Hill Edinburgh and Arthur’s seat came into view and this helped us to cross yet another section of water and bog before we crossed into the Almondell and Calder Country Park a quiet and pretty woodland through which a disused railway track took us to Uphall our stopping off destination for Edinburgh.
The last couple of days have been spent “resting” in Edinburgh. The city is teeming with people as it is Festival and Fringe Festival time. The Festival events are all fully booked but David and I have taken in a couple of excellent stand-up comedy shows – our own Sammy J and another superb performance called Frisky and Mannish – as well as a craft fair and an exhibition of prize winners in a world-wide press photography competition at the new Scottish Parliament House - and of course the famous Edinburgh historic sites. Tonight the Tattoo and tomorrow we resume our march northwards.
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