More of the Pennine Way

Malham proved to be a surprisingly popular town and one which boasted the magnificent Malham Cove, a massive natural amphitheatre whose 80m cliff-face once boasted a stunning waterfall. Climbing out of Malham Covealong its western edge we encountered a fascinating water-eroded limestone pavement worn down to criss-crossed blocks with deep fissures in between. a wayward turn the had us incurring the wrath of a local klandowner before we rectified the error and proceeded to Malham Tarn and the field centre at Malham Hall on the shore of the lake. A long climb then took us up on to Fountains Fell the on to Pen y Ghent the highest point on the Pennine Way so far at about 2200 feet. We stopped short of a final ascent to its peak and took a long downhill path strewn with limestone onto Horton in Ribblesdale.
The following morning we were awoken by groups of walkers heading off in heavy rain to do the popular but challenging 'Three Peaks' walk - a distance of 25 miles covering Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - all of similar heights.

The rain continued as we left Horton-in Ribblesdale and this eased to a heavy fog as we ascended to Birkwith Moor and Cave Hill. About 2 hours later the mist cleared and the sun shone to reveal the spectacular slopes of sourrounding moorland and we continued along the Cam High Road which had Roman origins (Agricola) over Dodd Fell and all the way down into the bustling village of Hawes (capital of 'Wensleyvale') where we enjoyed an afternoon tea of fruitcake and cheese, a Yorkshire specialty.

The following morning it was upwards again - this time a very steep climb on to the Great Shunner Fell at 2350 feet. In the distance we could see the outline of the Lake District mountains before we descended to the village of Thwaite for lunch. A fairly tricky path over a number of limestone scree slopes led us on the Pennine Way though the Swaledale Valley to Keld before we ascended once more to an old packhorse track along Stonedale Moor to reach Tan Hill - a famously remote pub which boasys about being the highest pub in England. The pub was originally built to serve the miners who worked the pits and quarries which still scar the surrounding landscape - lead and limestone. We enjoyeda refreshing ale in a convivial atmosphere- apart from your normal accommodation the pub also offers walkers a spot on the lounge for 10 pounds per night and live music from 10pm to 3am every night. Unfortunately we had rooms booked at Thwaite so returned there for the evening.

On the following day we resumed at Tan Hill to leave the Yorkshire Dales behind to cross Sleightholme Moor. As this section has a reputation for beingvery wet and boggy we opted to take a minor road aptly called the 'Long Causeway' and a track called Sleightholme Moor Road back to the main route at Sleightholme Beck. Our only experience with any form of life was the occasional flock of grouse flying unexpectedly from out of the grass in front of us. Just before crossing under the busy A66 on a stretch of quiet and empty moorland I had my first encounter with the bog where an untested step had me knee-deep in mud and sinking. However I was able extricate myself and continue, albeit with somewhat uncomfortable trousers and shoes!! The Pennine Way continued northwards through walled pastures (high stone stiles!) past a couple of large reservoirs and over successive hillsides ('false summits' to weary walkers) and down into Middleton-in-Teesdale. 150 years ago this town was the centre of the local leadmining industry dominated by the Quaker-run London Lead Mining Company which folded early 20th century.
We are taking advantage of a rest day today to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle.