In the customary early morning drizzle we departed Fort William eagerly anticipating our first day on the Great Glen Way. We soon joined the Caledonian Canal at Neptune's Staircase, a flight of locks which allowed shipping access to Loch Lochy and the lochs further north. At Gairlochy the Canal issued out into the Loch and we began a traverse along the loch on a series of forest rides not far from the waterside and for once relatively flat walking. Some 34km later we arrived in South Laggan where an accommodation mixup (2 Laggans in Scotland!!) saw us homeless but we were rescued by Isabel at Invergarry where we spent the night.
We departed Laggan the following morning through the Great Glen Water Park to follow the route of an old railway along the southern side of lovely Loch Oich to Aberchalder visiting the Bridge of Oich's old suspension bridge on route. In fact most of the locks and bridges on the Canal have been refurbished and nowhere do they look so neat and attractive than at Fort Augustus, the next stopping place, a busy tourist destination where we were able to see a number of ocean-going yachts and deep-sea trawlers as well as pleasure cruisers lining up to pass through the locks. Beyond Fort Augustus the walking route took to the north shore of Loch Ness which with the weather closing in looked dark and sinister but no sign of the monster!! A short descent about 12 km along the loch brought us into Invermoriston for the night apparently famous for being the place where Bonnie Prince Charlie sought safe haven after the Battle of Culloden in 1746.
A strenuous day's walking followed starting with a steep climb above the loch but with sun shining one which gave us glorious and sweeping views over both it and the surrounding highlands. At Grotaig we spotted large wood ant nests constructed from pine needles but little other wildlife. We are constantly reminded from signage along the way that the toxic pine plantations are gradually being felled to make way for native species more thinly planted to allow both plants and wildlife to thrive within them. Not long after Grotaig we deviated inland to head across the hillside before dropping down to West Lewiston a village close to Drumnadrochit.
The town now appears to survive on the commercial industry surrounding the monster sightings of whjich go back to the 6th century. At Strone Point a nearby vantage point on the loch itself we had a quick look at the much visited but overrated ruins of Urquhart Castle which seems to have been the focus of numerous battles over the centuries.
After a couple of kilometres along the terrifying A82 the following morning we again climbed up the hillside of Creag Nay. After tracking for some time through forests which contained reminders of an industry which during the construction of had attracted some thousands of lumberjacks from Canada we emerged into an area of new forest at Abriachan where the local community became the forst to buy their own forest from Forest Enterprise. It was here that we were attracted by an invitation to have a coffee at the up@cafe. A track through the trees led us to Rory and the cafe - a dilapidated marquis over a trestle table and 4 chairs. Despite its humble nature, Rory's appearance and Frances having a sandwich snatched out of her hand by one of the "free range" hens we enjoyed a well-brewed coffee while we listened to Rory talk about the 40,000 tress which he had planted on his 80 acres of forest!! We then joined a minor road north eastwards before the trail took us through soft forest and a descent past an old but magnificent building which used to be a mental hospital on the outskirts of Inverness. A very attractive canal-side walk then brought us into the centre of the town and the conclusion of the Great Glen Way. That evening we celebrated what had been a fabulous 4-day experience at a local restaurant called the Mustard Seed. 7 walking days to go!!
Monday, August 31, 2009
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
More from The West Highland Way
Leaving Inverarnan we wound our way along the floor of Glen Falloch along the line of an 18th century military road. Under General Wade the English introduced a systematic road system in the Highlands to enable their troops to move swiftly and effectively. One of these well-made routes is now the basis for long chunks of the West Highland Way north of Loch Lomond. From high in the trees above Crianlarich the giant pyramidal shape of Ben More came to view before we descended through the forest to reach the remains of St Fillans Priory (StFillan w2as an 8th century monk who wandered the Highlands preaching Christianity. The Way followed the bank of the River Fillan into Tyndrum an old lead mining town. The remainder of our journey was quite memorable as we walked the road in company with the railway along the bottom of Glen Orchy, the views being dominated by huge mountains, the most prominent of which was Beinn Doran which loomed overhead. Our journey for the day concluded at Bridge of Orchy, a small and isolated outpost.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
The following day heralded our forst real experience of the dreaded midgies. In drizzling rain we headed out of Bridge of Orchy on the old military road above the low hillside above Loch Tulla to Inveroran where we switched to an old drove road to climb past woodland and a magnificent estate by the loch to reach Rannoch Moor. A bleak and desolate place it proved to be!! The only sign of life were other groups of walkers battling the midgies and the conditions to make the 15 km traverse across its western edge. The rivers, lochs and bogs stretched out endlessly to the east with only the occasional pocket of conifers. Finally with the road to Glen Coe approaching and the posts associated with the White Corries Ski Centre we dropped down to the Kingshouse Hotel for the night which sets in splendid isolation on the far corner of the Moor surrounded by some of the most majestic mountains in the Highlands.
Armed with midgie nets and slathered in the Polish cosmetic skin spray called Avon Skin So Soft which smells quite foul we set out for Kinlochleven. Again a very misty morning prevented views of the distant mountains and in particular the forbidding Pass of Glencoe. But shortly after starting out we began our ascent of the Devil's Staircase, still part of the old military road, which
wound its way up the hillside to unfold views of the Mamores and Ben Nevis (unsighted because of the mist). From there on it was a relatively straightforward walk along the hillside to Blackwater Reservoir above Kinlochleven and a bone-crunching descent into the town. The reservoir had been built a century ago to feed an aluminium smelter at the town but which has since closed. Our B & B hostess Maureen complained bitterly about her life in the town which she hated with a passion having lived there all her life. Easy to believe given it has the highest rainfall in Scotland and she hadn't seen the sun since June!! The rest of the day was spent at the indoor rock and ice-climbing centre - the largest in Britain - and which keeps the young and not so young locals entertained.
The final stage of the West Highland Way began with a steepish climb up the hillside to reveal new views of the very beautiful Mamore Hills. We joined what was now a steady procession of familiar faces to head westwards along the bottom of a wild and unspoilt glen via Lairigmoor before rejoining the old military road. Near the isolated outpost of Blar a Chaorainn we paused for lunch near the spot where the Campbells ceased their pursuit of the Jacobite McDonalds during the Battle of Inverlochy. With the old road becoming tarmac we took a twisting track through Nevis Forest past an Iron Age hillfort before emerging under the enormous bulk of Ben Nevis. From there it was a stroll around the hillside to enjoy excellent views of Fort William on the edge of Loch Linhe. Fort William is indeed a ver busy centre, especailly during the last long weekend for the year. Brimming with tourists, many of which are here to walk or climb, it acts as a gateway to the northern highlands, the West Coast islands and a link between the Atlantic and the North Seas via the Great Glen.
Another rest day to mark our completion of the WHW enabled us to explore the town and to visit the Ben Nevis Distillery and nearby Inverlochy Castle before our penultimate stage to Inverness.
Monday, August 24, 2009
The West Highland Way
From Strathblane we headed west to join thye West Highland Way. A rather inconsiderate land owner forced us on to a very muddy path for part of thir roue which diminshed our enjoyment of soft woodland, nesting swans and serene lakeland. However our good humour returned with a decent coffee and lunch at the Wishing Well not long after we joined the Way and much better paths. The path continued along the former railway line to the hamlet of Gartness where we followed a lane into the village of Drymen. Remants of an old Roman fort and the Antoninw Wall could be seen on our approach to Drymen as rain again set in.
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
The West Highland Way began in earnest the following day as we left Drymen with the sun shining and the promise of a fine day. After a gentle climb out of the village we entered the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the Garadhban Forest where the pine plantation is gradually being replaced with native species of tree - no red squirrels however much to our disappointment.
Emerging on open hillside we began a descent of the aptly named Conic Hill to enjoy superb but misty views of Loch Lomond its islands (there are 38 in all known as inches) and the distant highlands. There followed a steep and rocky descent to the Balmaha tearooms on the edge of the loch. The afternoon path took us all the way along the edge of the loch which proved to be quite busy with a number of harbours, ferry services and campers sheltering from either the cool wind blowing off the loch or the midgies, with their blankets or doonas wrapped around them. No wonder there are record numbers of Brits travelling abroad for their holidays. Our overnight stay was at Rowardennan about midway along the loch and which comprised a youth hostel and a hotel but proved to be very busy.
Yesterday was described in all the guides as potentially tricky and the hardest day's walk on the West Highland Way and after drenching rain the night before whichcontinued all day it more than lived up to this reputation. David is about to sue Goretex for false advertising!!
We chose the forest ride for our exit from Rowardennan along the lower slopes of Ben Lomond, Rob Roy McGregor'r territory. Apparently Rob Roy took to the hills after his droving business failed and he was bankrupted by the Duke of Montrose He obtained his revenge by stealing the Duke's cattle and kidnapping his men, holding them in a large cave which we passed en route. After some 6 kilometres the road finished and the path became a slow and rocky one to Inversnaid Hotel a welcome haven for drenched walkers. A feature of Inversnaid was a spectacular waterfall made even moreso by the heavy rain which we were informed had increased the water level in the lake by 2 feet!! in fact we encountered a number of new waterfalls on the way and raging streams which were quite challenging to cross.
Forified by lunch we resumed on an even rockier and wet path but which gave good views of an increasingly fiord-like appearance to the loch as we approached its northern end. Finally we emerged to cross rough pasture and the woodland via Beinglas Farm and the bridge over the River Falloch to the early 18th century Drover's Inn at Inverarnan for an overnight stop, a rest day - and a chance to dry out!!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Memorable Moments
Details may be available from various team members or in Frances’ diary:
The latent flasher and the left behind lacy underwear incident
The Buckley / Watson accommodation grading system
The fattest person contest
How to handle a herd of wild horses (or bullocks) by David
How to clear the fence the fastest way by David (and Frances)
The lost room booking and the blow up them beds occasion
How to ignore the ‘Dyson’ by Richard
How to attract dogs by David
What to do with the unwanted full greasy breakfast
‘Come this way its not boggy’ Yvonne incident.
The aggressive land owner and a momentary loss of temper incident.
Can we get a lift on that canal boat through the 2 mile tunnel?
The ‘Imelda Marcus’ walking shoe collection contest (easily won by Yvonne)
The oldest visitors book in a 1792 pub and the 1923 Hobartians visit.
The jingle jangle room key incident.
The ‘worst in your face hostess’ contest.
Has Jo got Swine Flu??
Is there a film that LT does not know all about?
Can LT get his pint of coke fix here?
The daily map reading sessions.
How to have dinner with the same people for 90 nights and still laugh.
Have we got Internet connection?
Padstow, David and the icecream loving seagull.
Joni in the short skirt and the distracted driver accident
Posted by Richard
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Scotland at last
We were delighted that Chris decided to join us for our journey to Melrose the following day leaving Brian to investigate the local salmon fishing spots. From Jedburgh we found our way back to Dere Street and wound our way along the River Teviot . Crossing a new suspension bridge we visited the beautiful gardens of Monteviot House and passed the Waterloo Monument before rejoining the River Tweed for lunch at St Boswells. On our way out we passed Dryburgh Abbey from the 12th century which holds the grave of Sir Walter Scott. The rest of the day was spent skirting the 3 Eildon Hills to follow the St Cuthbert’s Way into the second of the principal Scottish border towns of Melrose. Melrose Abbey ruins which we visited later that evening were most atmospheric, again founded in the 12th century but destroyed by English raids in the 14th century.
Another very scenic stretch by the River Tweed the next morning led us past numerous very large estates with very large gardens and on to Yair Bridge. A simple uneventful afternoon’s stroll followed into Innerleithen – very unimpressive. However Traquair House was a couple of miles down the road where we began our walk the next day. Traquair House is believed to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland – a royal hunting lodge over 1000 years old – frequented by Mary Queen of Scots. From Traquair we skirted the hills to Peebles – again a very lively border town dating back to 1367 – very Scottish – even spotted a few kilts. With rain falling we left the town by Neidpath Castle to begin a tortupous afternoon’s walk which included a steep and rough climb to the summit of White Meldon followed by a worse descent over boggy hillside into a forestry plantation and a wet and muddy path into Romannobridge before some welcome road walking into West Linton. Overnight at Carlops a nearby village to dry out.
But the next day the rain continued as we tackled the Pentland Hills to give us access to Edinburgh. We were reminded that the “glorious 12th” the start of the grouse shooting season had finally arrived with sound of gunshots at periodic intervals throughout the day. We climbed out of West Linton to Baddingsgill Reservoir before taking to the Thieves Road on Cauldstone Slap. The summit was a godforsaken place – wild and bleak and as usual not a soul to be seen apart from a couple of woolly highland cattle. It was not hard to imagine the cattle rustlers hiding amongst the heather ready to surprise the drovers on their journey to the market towns. The steady rains had converted the tracks to streams and we had to wade the fords. At the top of Corston Hill Edinburgh and Arthur’s seat came into view and this helped us to cross yet another section of water and bog before we crossed into the Almondell and Calder Country Park a quiet and pretty woodland through which a disused railway track took us to Uphall our stopping off destination for Edinburgh.
The last couple of days have been spent “resting” in Edinburgh. The city is teeming with people as it is Festival and Fringe Festival time. The Festival events are all fully booked but David and I have taken in a couple of excellent stand-up comedy shows – our own Sammy J and another superb performance called Frisky and Mannish – as well as a craft fair and an exhibition of prize winners in a world-wide press photography competition at the new Scottish Parliament House - and of course the famous Edinburgh historic sites. Tonight the Tattoo and tomorrow we resume our march northwards.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Heading west
Shaking Edinburgh off we resumed our journey to head west in the direction of Glasgow from Uphall. Despite its close proximity to the city the path was surprisingly rural with patches of woodland. At Linlithgow we joined the Union Canal which proved to have an excellent and very pretty tow path but with the absence of the house boats we had seen further south. There were other surprises too as we crossed a magnificent aqueduct, 273m long which spanned the River Avon and further on entered a tunnel about 1km in length under Callender Park. Apparently the estate owner at the time of construction would not allow the canal in sight of Callender House.
We also passed a very large newly constructed prison for young offenders on the banks of the canal at a rather ugly industrial estate at Polmont - not hard to imagine that the need for these institutions are growing after having observed behaviour in Edinburgh. Leaving the canal we headed into the centre of Falkirk, quite modern and busy, for the night.
The canal beckoned again the following morning and we scurried along the tow path for a couple of kilometres anxious to catch our first sight of the Falkirk Wheel. We were not disappointed as this ambitious construction came to view. Built at a cost of about 78 million pounds as part of the Millenium Link it replaces the need for 11 locks and links the Union with the Forth & Clyde Canals so the canal runs from the Forth right through to the Clyde. Like a huge ferris wheel it lifts boats a height of about 33 metres. The site also features a state of the art visitor centre which served a decent coffee so it received a big tick!! Beyond the Wheel the canal tow path ran aparallel with the Antonine Wall, a return to things Roman - 60 km long it was built in AD142 to reflect Rome's short-lived push north. Not a lot remains but we were able to see grassy remains of forts at Croy Hill near Kilsyth and the large ditch that was dug in front of the wall. Entering Kilsyth we climbed the hill to Allenfauld Farm to enjoy great hospitality from the Mc Gregors.
Despite the ongoing rain David and I decided to catch the train from Croy into Glasgow where we joined a late afternoon tour of Charles Rennie McIntosh's architecture and furniture making at the Glasgow School of Art and dinner in the Merchant Square area of the city.
Today was the last day on the Canal. After an easy stroll along the tow path under threatening skies we left the tow path at Kirkintilloch to head north-west on a cycle path to Strathblane in the direction of Loch Lomond. The skies opened up again and the already fast-flowing streams became torrents as we passed lovely rural countryside with a backdrop of increasingly green and craggy hillsides. The cycle path was on another former transport route - Gartness-Kirkintilloch Railway and took us through Milton of Campsie and Lennoxtown to Strathblane coming out at the entrance to Mugdock Country Park.
We also passed a very large newly constructed prison for young offenders on the banks of the canal at a rather ugly industrial estate at Polmont - not hard to imagine that the need for these institutions are growing after having observed behaviour in Edinburgh. Leaving the canal we headed into the centre of Falkirk, quite modern and busy, for the night.
The canal beckoned again the following morning and we scurried along the tow path for a couple of kilometres anxious to catch our first sight of the Falkirk Wheel. We were not disappointed as this ambitious construction came to view. Built at a cost of about 78 million pounds as part of the Millenium Link it replaces the need for 11 locks and links the Union with the Forth & Clyde Canals so the canal runs from the Forth right through to the Clyde. Like a huge ferris wheel it lifts boats a height of about 33 metres. The site also features a state of the art visitor centre which served a decent coffee so it received a big tick!! Beyond the Wheel the canal tow path ran aparallel with the Antonine Wall, a return to things Roman - 60 km long it was built in AD142 to reflect Rome's short-lived push north. Not a lot remains but we were able to see grassy remains of forts at Croy Hill near Kilsyth and the large ditch that was dug in front of the wall. Entering Kilsyth we climbed the hill to Allenfauld Farm to enjoy great hospitality from the Mc Gregors.
Despite the ongoing rain David and I decided to catch the train from Croy into Glasgow where we joined a late afternoon tour of Charles Rennie McIntosh's architecture and furniture making at the Glasgow School of Art and dinner in the Merchant Square area of the city.
Today was the last day on the Canal. After an easy stroll along the tow path under threatening skies we left the tow path at Kirkintilloch to head north-west on a cycle path to Strathblane in the direction of Loch Lomond. The skies opened up again and the already fast-flowing streams became torrents as we passed lovely rural countryside with a backdrop of increasingly green and craggy hillsides. The cycle path was on another former transport route - Gartness-Kirkintilloch Railway and took us through Milton of Campsie and Lennoxtown to Strathblane coming out at the entrance to Mugdock Country Park.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
PAST 1000 KM & REFLECTIONS ON A DAY IN THE LIFE OF THE ‘SUPPORT TEAM’
A solid breakfast usually around 8am followed a team meeting on the day’s walk to decide a suitable lunch spot as well as the final pickup point if the team was not walking to our accommodation, which was often somewhat off the walk route. All of us would pack the wagon and the walkers would set off in shorts or full wet weather gear – usually the later, as July was one of the wettest in UK records.
I would then spend an hour or two catching up with emails and any business demands, coffee and then, if time, find a gym (3/4 times a week) then meet the troops for lunch if there was a inviting pub as there usually was, on the route. If I located a suitable golf course or someone I knew, would play one or two rounds during the week. There have been some great courses with standouts Royal North Devon, Burnham Berrow, Taunton, etc.
All this sounds a bit like a walk in the park however consider this – the route follows long distance walking tracks through some of the loveliest and more isolated (if that is possible)parts of the UK involving very narrow lanes and roads, often one car width with irregular passing points. Some were not on the larger maps and able to confuse even the GPS so getting to some of the pubs and particularly the pick up points could be tricky; then add in driving rain and traffic, always cars, more cars and much time and swearing would eventuate. Then actually finding the accommodation, particularly B & B’s was another, sometimes very difficult, hurdle. On arriving later in the afternoon I would check our booking (only two pubs have ‘lost’ ours to date) and then take the girls cases to their rooms, inevitably up one or two flights of stairs
Finding the walkers and the agreed point was quite challenging in the lanes and they were very often much later than estimated because of the track or weather conditions. The rain was a real factor and of course when picking up the ‘walkers’ who, despite good wet weather gear, would look rather drowned, as well as very tired and then all piling in for a ‘steamed up’ trip to the accommodation. Then we add Yvonne’s daughter Jo, and David’s friend LT, who joined us in Bath for a couple of weeks, to the mix!
At the half way point had a great stay for a few days with our friends Alan and Ingrid Gilbert in Manchester and much needed recuperation and a really nice party with some local walkers. A sorry farewell to Jo and LT followed ……… and then back to our core group
Then on to the Yorkshire moors, rain and more rain and much more mud – peat bogs this time, one of which nearly swallowed up Yvonne!
Despite driving over 1500 km in these conditions I was pleased we had only one underside dent caused by a lane side hidden rock in one passing episode! Can we say the same about the condition of the walkers? Indeed we can, what a great team they are, for despite muscle soreness, foot problems and tiredness they have come through stronger than ever with Yvonne setting a new record for the number of walking shoes brought and used!
Now looking forward to the final push to the summit – John O’Groats, over the next month with expectations about much improved weather for Scotland including the Edinburgh festival.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
The Pennine Way continues
A day off and we decided to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle and the magnificent Bowes Museum. The museum, a palatial building set in beautiful landscaped gardens was built by John and Josephine Bowes to house their extensive collection of European artwork, silver, textiles, furniture and fine porcelain. John Bowes was the illegitimate son of the Earl of Strathmore whose brother was the grandfather of the Queen Mother - an interesting connection!!. The highlight of the collection was the musically automated Silver Swan.
The following morning began with a riverside walk along the River Tees - wild flowers everywhere bordered a bubbling stream. Passing the Wynch Bridge, built in 1704 and claimed to be the first suspension bridge in England we moved on to the pleasant waterfall at Low Force and the to its much more spectacular brother High Force which plunged thunderously over the Whin Sill (low dark cliffs of dolerite) into the dark peaty pools below. We were amused by a group of schoolchildren who were being tossed into the river below the falls to freefall the rapids - not always willingly. The area round the falls was part of the large estate belonging to the eccentric hippie Lord Barnard from nearby Raby Castle - which explained the complete lack of safety from our side of the falls. The story goes that Lord Barnard has ordained that all property on his estate is to be limewashed with blue lintels so that he can identify them -apparently resulting from an occasion when he was trying to find a safe haven on his drunken return from a local pub. Our path then switched banks at Forest in Teesdale to continue to Saur Hill Bridge and on to Langton Beck - a solitary hotel (belonging to Lord Barnard) and our destination for the night.
A fairly straightforward section the next morning along a moorland path where we have taken to identifying the various breeds of sheep we meet, of which there are many, and a rocky descent into the small village of Garrigill, the a relatively easy walk alongside the river South Tyne into Alston which claims to be the highest market town in England and which at one point inj the 19th century was the world's biggest lead producer. Alston proved to be a very agrreable stopping place with a number of craft shops and a picturesque railway station which has been restored following the partial re-opening of the narrow gauge steam railway betwwen Alston and Gerenhead.
The following day in beautiful sunshine we commenced with a walk along the footpath at the side of the rail track and the on the site of the track itself all the way into Greenhead. At Lambley we came across an attractive arched viaduct over the South Tyne River which with National Trust assistance has now been restored and with this crossing we continued on to Featherstone and coffee ( a rare opportunity!!) at the Wallace Arms at Featherstone. From there the path took us on to Haltwhistle where we again crossed the South Tyne, before climbing up hill to finish at the Milecastle Inn about 3 km north and our first sighting of Hadrian's Wall - a much anticipated experience. we were collected and taken to Greenhead for the night where we again caught up with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
Resuming the following day at Hadrian's Wall we began in beautiful walk along an 8km route of the Wall. It proved to most interesting but also quite demanding with a large number of ups and downs. Commissioned By Emperor Hadrian in AD122 it represented Rome's norther frontier for 250 years. MOst of the Wall we walked was still standing together with evidence of the defensive ditch to its north and another, the Vallum to the south which defined the military zone. At Rapshaw Gap we left the Wall and headed north across the moorland, into the conifer plantations of Wark Forest and then into another vast expanse of solitary moorland. Further woodland led us to undulating farmland around Warks Burn, much need-water and a cheese scone from a local farmer, a steep climb up to Ealingham Rigg where we confronted another large herd of cows, calves and yet another large brown bull. heeding the warning signs and advice from the farmer we dodged the herd and descended into the little grey town of Bellingham.
From Bellingham the next morning it was back to the moorland with more evidence of grouse activity - birds and butts. By now the heather is coming in to bloom and we were surrounded by purple-covered hills before descending into the yet more forested hillsides of the Redesdale Forest. We finally dropped down into Blakehopeburnhaugh and Cottonhopeburnfoot, only memorable for their long names, and ended our stage at Byrness, a forestry village built for workers in the 1930s.
The Pennine Way headed straight up the forested hillside out of Byrness the following day to emerge on the open moorland on the exposed tops of the Cheviot Hills. It was a wet start to the day which only added to the discomfort of a path which the Guidebook aptly described as equal quantities of peat, water and bath sponges. Slow progress took us over Houx Hill and Ravens Knowe to Chew Green and the remains of a Roman army camp where we picked up the old Roman road Dere Street. Dere Street originally ran from York to the Forth near Edinburgh and was built during the governorship of Agricola 79 to 83AD, 40 years before Hadrain built the wall.
Passing through the gates at Black Halls we left England for the last time on the Trail following Dere Street until another navigational error necessitated the use of minor roads and added a further 2km to our journey into Jedburgh. Apart from a much celebrated entry into Scotland we recorded our longest walking day to date - 33km over 9 hours with a 15 minute break for lunch.
As I write we are enjoying a rswt day in Jedburgh. It is one of the main border towns with a long history including the ruins of Jedburgh Abbey founded by King David1 in 1118 for Augustinian canons but destroyed in 1545. We will joined shortly by Chris and Brian Bennett - Chris will be part of the team for the walk tomorrow.
The following morning began with a riverside walk along the River Tees - wild flowers everywhere bordered a bubbling stream. Passing the Wynch Bridge, built in 1704 and claimed to be the first suspension bridge in England we moved on to the pleasant waterfall at Low Force and the to its much more spectacular brother High Force which plunged thunderously over the Whin Sill (low dark cliffs of dolerite) into the dark peaty pools below. We were amused by a group of schoolchildren who were being tossed into the river below the falls to freefall the rapids - not always willingly. The area round the falls was part of the large estate belonging to the eccentric hippie Lord Barnard from nearby Raby Castle - which explained the complete lack of safety from our side of the falls. The story goes that Lord Barnard has ordained that all property on his estate is to be limewashed with blue lintels so that he can identify them -apparently resulting from an occasion when he was trying to find a safe haven on his drunken return from a local pub. Our path then switched banks at Forest in Teesdale to continue to Saur Hill Bridge and on to Langton Beck - a solitary hotel (belonging to Lord Barnard) and our destination for the night.
A fairly straightforward section the next morning along a moorland path where we have taken to identifying the various breeds of sheep we meet, of which there are many, and a rocky descent into the small village of Garrigill, the a relatively easy walk alongside the river South Tyne into Alston which claims to be the highest market town in England and which at one point inj the 19th century was the world's biggest lead producer. Alston proved to be a very agrreable stopping place with a number of craft shops and a picturesque railway station which has been restored following the partial re-opening of the narrow gauge steam railway betwwen Alston and Gerenhead.
The following day in beautiful sunshine we commenced with a walk along the footpath at the side of the rail track and the on the site of the track itself all the way into Greenhead. At Lambley we came across an attractive arched viaduct over the South Tyne River which with National Trust assistance has now been restored and with this crossing we continued on to Featherstone and coffee ( a rare opportunity!!) at the Wallace Arms at Featherstone. From there the path took us on to Haltwhistle where we again crossed the South Tyne, before climbing up hill to finish at the Milecastle Inn about 3 km north and our first sighting of Hadrian's Wall - a much anticipated experience. we were collected and taken to Greenhead for the night where we again caught up with Allan and Ingrid Gilbert.
Resuming the following day at Hadrian's Wall we began in beautiful walk along an 8km route of the Wall. It proved to most interesting but also quite demanding with a large number of ups and downs. Commissioned By Emperor Hadrian in AD122 it represented Rome's norther frontier for 250 years. MOst of the Wall we walked was still standing together with evidence of the defensive ditch to its north and another, the Vallum to the south which defined the military zone. At Rapshaw Gap we left the Wall and headed north across the moorland, into the conifer plantations of Wark Forest and then into another vast expanse of solitary moorland. Further woodland led us to undulating farmland around Warks Burn, much need-water and a cheese scone from a local farmer, a steep climb up to Ealingham Rigg where we confronted another large herd of cows, calves and yet another large brown bull. heeding the warning signs and advice from the farmer we dodged the herd and descended into the little grey town of Bellingham.
From Bellingham the next morning it was back to the moorland with more evidence of grouse activity - birds and butts. By now the heather is coming in to bloom and we were surrounded by purple-covered hills before descending into the yet more forested hillsides of the Redesdale Forest. We finally dropped down into Blakehopeburnhaugh and Cottonhopeburnfoot, only memorable for their long names, and ended our stage at Byrness, a forestry village built for workers in the 1930s.
The Pennine Way headed straight up the forested hillside out of Byrness the following day to emerge on the open moorland on the exposed tops of the Cheviot Hills. It was a wet start to the day which only added to the discomfort of a path which the Guidebook aptly described as equal quantities of peat, water and bath sponges. Slow progress took us over Houx Hill and Ravens Knowe to Chew Green and the remains of a Roman army camp where we picked up the old Roman road Dere Street. Dere Street originally ran from York to the Forth near Edinburgh and was built during the governorship of Agricola 79 to 83AD, 40 years before Hadrain built the wall.
Passing through the gates at Black Halls we left England for the last time on the Trail following Dere Street until another navigational error necessitated the use of minor roads and added a further 2km to our journey into Jedburgh. Apart from a much celebrated entry into Scotland we recorded our longest walking day to date - 33km over 9 hours with a 15 minute break for lunch.
As I write we are enjoying a rswt day in Jedburgh. It is one of the main border towns with a long history including the ruins of Jedburgh Abbey founded by King David1 in 1118 for Augustinian canons but destroyed in 1545. We will joined shortly by Chris and Brian Bennett - Chris will be part of the team for the walk tomorrow.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
More of the Pennine Way
Malham proved to be a surprisingly popular town and one which boasted the magnificent Malham Cove, a massive natural amphitheatre whose 80m cliff-face once boasted a stunning waterfall. Climbing out of Malham Covealong its western edge we encountered a fascinating water-eroded limestone pavement worn down to criss-crossed blocks with deep fissures in between. a wayward turn the had us incurring the wrath of a local klandowner before we rectified the error and proceeded to Malham Tarn and the field centre at Malham Hall on the shore of the lake. A long climb then took us up on to Fountains Fell the on to Pen y Ghent the highest point on the Pennine Way so far at about 2200 feet. We stopped short of a final ascent to its peak and took a long downhill path strewn with limestone onto Horton in Ribblesdale.
The following morning we were awoken by groups of walkers heading off in heavy rain to do the popular but challenging 'Three Peaks' walk - a distance of 25 miles covering Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - all of similar heights.
The rain continued as we left Horton-in Ribblesdale and this eased to a heavy fog as we ascended to Birkwith Moor and Cave Hill. About 2 hours later the mist cleared and the sun shone to reveal the spectacular slopes of sourrounding moorland and we continued along the Cam High Road which had Roman origins (Agricola) over Dodd Fell and all the way down into the bustling village of Hawes (capital of 'Wensleyvale') where we enjoyed an afternoon tea of fruitcake and cheese, a Yorkshire specialty.
The following morning it was upwards again - this time a very steep climb on to the Great Shunner Fell at 2350 feet. In the distance we could see the outline of the Lake District mountains before we descended to the village of Thwaite for lunch. A fairly tricky path over a number of limestone scree slopes led us on the Pennine Way though the Swaledale Valley to Keld before we ascended once more to an old packhorse track along Stonedale Moor to reach Tan Hill - a famously remote pub which boasys about being the highest pub in England. The pub was originally built to serve the miners who worked the pits and quarries which still scar the surrounding landscape - lead and limestone. We enjoyeda refreshing ale in a convivial atmosphere- apart from your normal accommodation the pub also offers walkers a spot on the lounge for 10 pounds per night and live music from 10pm to 3am every night. Unfortunately we had rooms booked at Thwaite so returned there for the evening.
On the following day we resumed at Tan Hill to leave the Yorkshire Dales behind to cross Sleightholme Moor. As this section has a reputation for beingvery wet and boggy we opted to take a minor road aptly called the 'Long Causeway' and a track called Sleightholme Moor Road back to the main route at Sleightholme Beck. Our only experience with any form of life was the occasional flock of grouse flying unexpectedly from out of the grass in front of us. Just before crossing under the busy A66 on a stretch of quiet and empty moorland I had my first encounter with the bog where an untested step had me knee-deep in mud and sinking. However I was able extricate myself and continue, albeit with somewhat uncomfortable trousers and shoes!! The Pennine Way continued northwards through walled pastures (high stone stiles!) past a couple of large reservoirs and over successive hillsides ('false summits' to weary walkers) and down into Middleton-in-Teesdale. 150 years ago this town was the centre of the local leadmining industry dominated by the Quaker-run London Lead Mining Company which folded early 20th century.
We are taking advantage of a rest day today to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle.
The following morning we were awoken by groups of walkers heading off in heavy rain to do the popular but challenging 'Three Peaks' walk - a distance of 25 miles covering Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough - all of similar heights.
The rain continued as we left Horton-in Ribblesdale and this eased to a heavy fog as we ascended to Birkwith Moor and Cave Hill. About 2 hours later the mist cleared and the sun shone to reveal the spectacular slopes of sourrounding moorland and we continued along the Cam High Road which had Roman origins (Agricola) over Dodd Fell and all the way down into the bustling village of Hawes (capital of 'Wensleyvale') where we enjoyed an afternoon tea of fruitcake and cheese, a Yorkshire specialty.
The following morning it was upwards again - this time a very steep climb on to the Great Shunner Fell at 2350 feet. In the distance we could see the outline of the Lake District mountains before we descended to the village of Thwaite for lunch. A fairly tricky path over a number of limestone scree slopes led us on the Pennine Way though the Swaledale Valley to Keld before we ascended once more to an old packhorse track along Stonedale Moor to reach Tan Hill - a famously remote pub which boasys about being the highest pub in England. The pub was originally built to serve the miners who worked the pits and quarries which still scar the surrounding landscape - lead and limestone. We enjoyeda refreshing ale in a convivial atmosphere- apart from your normal accommodation the pub also offers walkers a spot on the lounge for 10 pounds per night and live music from 10pm to 3am every night. Unfortunately we had rooms booked at Thwaite so returned there for the evening.
On the following day we resumed at Tan Hill to leave the Yorkshire Dales behind to cross Sleightholme Moor. As this section has a reputation for beingvery wet and boggy we opted to take a minor road aptly called the 'Long Causeway' and a track called Sleightholme Moor Road back to the main route at Sleightholme Beck. Our only experience with any form of life was the occasional flock of grouse flying unexpectedly from out of the grass in front of us. Just before crossing under the busy A66 on a stretch of quiet and empty moorland I had my first encounter with the bog where an untested step had me knee-deep in mud and sinking. However I was able extricate myself and continue, albeit with somewhat uncomfortable trousers and shoes!! The Pennine Way continued northwards through walled pastures (high stone stiles!) past a couple of large reservoirs and over successive hillsides ('false summits' to weary walkers) and down into Middleton-in-Teesdale. 150 years ago this town was the centre of the local leadmining industry dominated by the Quaker-run London Lead Mining Company which folded early 20th century.
We are taking advantage of a rest day today to visit the nearby market town of Barnard Castle.
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